Poor man's impact screwdriver.

[floundering]

Are you describing this:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

It works freakin awesome.

[steve.murphy]

David,
That old drill would work. I have an old crafts man speed handle that has a knob on the end so you can put some pressure on it. Snap on ones dont have that feature.

[Dawai]

Floundering..
No, but I'll keep that in mind next time I break a chisel off.. and a extension.. The rig I built uses a cheapie hammer impact that has a cam in it. A nut has a "slope".. I found out a long time ago pipe you are taking down as a electrician or plumber, you smack it with two hammers, one as a anvil and hammer At the couplings and it unscrews by hand.. it wants to run "downhill".. just gotta jar it and get it moving..


(mine looks bigger than that one) "braggin ain't I?"

driven by one of these.. through a welded chisel adapter.



Steve.. I think the twist drill will work.. as soon as I figure out the adapter part.. Perhaps use the nose off the impact screwdriver, it is 3/8" x ? and a broken extension or?? I've never saw one like you described.. this I guess is my version of reinventing the wheel.

[steve.murphy]

David, Here is what I call a speedhandle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-1-...item3f0fd6a852
They are probably called something else, I dunno.
Steve

[Dawai]

Yep.. Steve.. that is a speed handle. I used to have a full set of them.. putting head bolts in engines when I was young.. zip.. no air tools needed. I got a impact now with a torque setting.. I set it low and do it that way.

The Home made rig hammers "inward" at the same time the internal impact cam rotates.. I think the insides of the socket impact just twists as it hammers??

I've often thought of taking that ratchet nose coming out of it and welding a lever on, the good one I have somewhere has like 300lbs impact force.. now that'd make a nice planishing hammer or shaping hammer if you could stand the noise.. and if it stalls out not shaping the metal to die?, it'd keep on hammering.. Not got around to playing with that idea yet.. one of you invent it so I can copy it..

My overhead helve smacks the crap out of metal and makes it do what the die says.. I am about done experimenting on those kinda things. The metal feels Hot as it shapes.

Guys. for sure I don't know everything, I'm still learning.. I am getting into my later part of life and I have paid attention thou to the elders in my career.(s)

Last night at 2am.. I got this idea for a hot wire similar to the ones the RC airplane people use.. to cut the uhmw dies on the overhead helve.. will take about 3 minutes to build I hope.. of course.. if you know me? I'll spend all day working on it. It came with a bit of indigestion that woke me up.

Edit< 31 degrees inside my shop this morning.. I made this lil adapter from a chinese extension that came from who knows where?

I have a 3/8"x1/4" adapter to use it with the screw driver bits.. but them screws are stuck tight still..

[CARS]

Originally Posted by floundering

Are you describing this:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

It works freakin awesome.

I saw this used at the Route56 MM last spring. It sure does work slick!
Bought one a few months ago... guess what? Haven't needed it yet. Someday....

[BLRussell]

[I] Quote:My gmc is giving me some resistance to coming apart, the door Phillips screws are stuck tight.

Dawia, here's what has worked for me. Put the large Phillips bit that comes with the hand hammer tool set you mentioned into a 1/2 socket that accepts said bit, and attach socket to cheap ($39,or so) HF electric impact tool. After soaking with penetrating fluid, rattle clockwise, then reverse. Repeat as necessary.
I may have just been lucky, but has worked several times for me.

[Dawai]

3 on the drivers door now get drilled, not sure about the several I have left on the passenger side.
Problem was this old truck sat without windows in the weather. I'll sharpen a bit backwards.. sometimes half way through the drilling out they spin out.. sometimes.. My luck ain't been hitting.

Steve.. That brace & Bit , speedhandle now.. is very cool.. not so much with the old truck.. but putting in drywall screws in the plywood I hung on the wall to hold some automation panels.. about 50 or so screws.. zip.. in.. Very cool tool. It's old, rusty, works like a charm and now has a cherished place in my tool box.

On the brighter side? Pat has my powdercoat done. THE underhood of that old junk truck is going to be PURTY..

Except for stringing a piece of mig wire, and wiring up a contactor.. the "hot wire" is ready.. and so simple.. a old coping saw with ceramic insulators from a scrapped drier.. step on pedal, heat wire from welder turned way down.. when it gets "white" off pedal.. so it does not burn up.. I think.. we'll see how it works in reality..

[shortbus]

Don't know if this is relevant or if any one else ever heard of it. Worked at a place making plastic parts for cars. In the assembly department they were constantly having problems stripping the heads of Phillips screws.

They called in a tech from the bit driver maker. And he showed us a trick. He took the brand new bits and ground of about 1/64 to 1/33 of an inch from the very tip of the bit. No more striped screw heads!

Asked him why they weren't made that way, he said that would cut down there sales of bits Since then thats the first thing I do with a new Philips screw driver, guess what? Screw drivers don't wear out and screw heads don't strip near as much.

The reason is that the heads of the screws don't usually go to as sharp(deep) of a point as the driver. So driver doesn't make good enough contact with the 'wings' of the slot. Try it.

cary