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  #1  
Old 10-09-2011, 11:49 AM
merlinsautobody merlinsautobody is offline
 
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Earlier this year a friend of mine who owns a shop that does excellent work brought over a customer who wanted to build a replica of a race car that was very popular in the early 70’s in south Africa and many other parts of the world. The customer wanted to have a set of flairs made out of steel so that’s what my friend brought him to me for. He showed me this picture and asked if I could make these flairs.





Of course I told him yes even though I had never taken on a job quite like this before. I asked him a lot of questions and he was impressed with my observations and attention to details. Time went on and I never heard any more about it even though I had mentally figured out my approach to this job. A bad turn of events forced my friend to close his shop but the customer he brought over kept in contact with me. He sent me a series of emails showing me what he liked and didn’t like about the various cars of this style. So I was able to get a real good feel for exactly what he wanted. He had taken the car to another shop that mainly does collision repair but better quality he had stripped the car down and mounted it on a rotisserie. In the mean time he had another car that had already been modified with a v8 installed and drivable he just felt it had more rust than he wanted to deal with so he used the cleaner of the cars he had. We finally set a time to get started on this project and we used the drivable car because it was already at the right height for the motor being used to set the flairs. This picture shows what I started with.

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Last edited by anders nørgaard; 10-10-2011 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:01 PM
merlinsautobody merlinsautobody is offline
 
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The first thing I did was mount the chosen wheel and tire size so I could establish exactly where the flairs had to be placed and what size they needed to be. So I made a paper mock up of the proposed flairs so he could see exactly what it was going to look like. The following shots show my paper flair.









Next I had to make a way of establishing where the outside of the flair would be since I was doing all 4 flairs I wanted them to be exactly the same so I made up a template to mark them all the same. I used a 2x4 frame and put a piece of 1/8 spring steel wire in the frame to make a nice curve that could be repeated. This is a picture of that setup.


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Last edited by anders nørgaard; 10-10-2011 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:43 PM
merlinsautobody merlinsautobody is offline
 
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The next thing I do is very unconventional I made a plastic mockup of the wheel opening. I used sheet styrene and glued up the pieces. I had to use a bunch of clamps to hold it in position while the glue set up. Heres a few shots of what that looked like.









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Last edited by anders nørgaard; 10-10-2011 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:55 PM
merlinsautobody merlinsautobody is offline
 
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I didn’t take a picture but I mounted a piece of plywood to the edge of the flair and filled it with fiberglass and wood scraps and filled the gap between the wood and the car. There’s a lot of pictures of this stupid plaster flair in my album. Like I said I wouldn’t do it this way again. Next time I’ll just mark the area of the outside of the flair and cut it shorter and bend it out manually , I finally did this by the time I got to the fourth flair and it was a lot easier. Some things you just don’t get until you actually do them.
Now I’m actually ready to do some metal shaping. Enough of this plastic and plaster stuff. The owner of the car had the front fenders removed because they were coated with a thick layer of undercoating that was starting to fail and he wanted to get it removed. These are weld on fenders so that was no small task. He brought me clean and primed fenders. I set the fender on the fiberglass form I had made and screwed and clamped it down.




I then marked the area to cut out and removed the wheel opening lip. Heres a shot of the fender with the lip cut off.



I can’t remember but this may be the first fender I did because I learned to cut the area I had to turn out a little smaller’ here it is after a little beating.

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Last edited by anders nørgaard; 10-10-2011 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:27 PM
merlinsautobody merlinsautobody is offline
 
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The fender came out ok but the form was brittle and cracked to pieces. I normally use marglass for this type of work but I was using a European product made by upol and didn’t know that it was brittle. Surprise!



why is my type comming out so small when i copyed it fromword it was much larger and it's even larger when i type it here'

here is what it looked like after the roughing out stage.

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Last edited by anders nørgaard; 10-10-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:51 PM
red baron red baron is offline
 
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Lookin good! What part of San Diego are you in? I'm up in Oceanside
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:28 AM
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Hairy-Neil Hairy-Neil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinsautobody View Post

why is my type comming out so small
Edit the post and remove the 'Times New Roman' font formatting...
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:44 AM
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anders nørgaard anders nørgaard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairy-Neil View Post
Edit the post and remove the 'Times New Roman' font formatting...

Yes, and change the formatting to "Verdana" size "2" (default font)
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:24 AM
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Gayle,
Don't let the computer glitches hold you back, size of wording isn't important. The content is Great! Thanks for Sharing it with us! tt
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:24 AM
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ESjaavik ESjaavik is offline
 
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Is this the one you are cloning?

http://www.capri-perana.co.za/gunston.html

Please keep on posting. I will have to deal with a similar flare and not sure about how to attack it. Your take on this may help me.
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