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| Gas welding sheetmetal All methods of welding sheetmetal with Oxy/Acetylene gas |
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#101
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I guess my new process for getting tanks will be to bring my regulators and check the fit before I leave.
Incidentally, I tried to edit my first post to add this useful tidbit but it looks like I can no longer edit that post. Maybe there's a time limit on that. |
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#102
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Here is the bird barrier project I mentioned a few posts ago. The first pic below shows the problem I'm trying to solve. These big doors stay open when the weather is warm and birds fly in and start building their nests in the eaves. I wouldn't mind this but they are not potty trained. The second picture shows the inside of the same door. I made some brackets from which the barrier frame will hang. The 3rd picture is a closeup of the hanger brackets.
The fourth pic is the frame of the barrier. It's 11' 11" wide by 7' 8" high. I still have to add another frame to the top that will close in the gap at the top of the door frame. The frame will hang from the round tubing welded to the top (5th pic) which will sit loosely in the hanger brackets. The idea is to attach chicken wire to this frame. I plan to use small pieces of 1" wide plate with self taping screws to clamp the chicken wire to the frame at various points. As far as the welding is concerned, I learned a lot. First, I had concerns about how I was going to keep such a large project level. I took advantage of the posts in the overhang of our barn and temporarily attached a 2 x 8 x 12'. Then I placed the saw horses parallel and leveled them by moving the gravel under them. It didn't take much. This kept the top and bottom frame pieces aligned with one another. I know the welds aren't the prettiest, but they're strong enough. This is all 1" square or round tubing of 1/16" thickness. I mitered the corners to get the strongest possible joints. After discussion here and doing some more research, I realized that I had been using way too much acetylene pressure. I found one reference that talked about how the flame should sound. My flame had been sounding like a jet engine and was causing overheated, oxidized welds. For butt joints, I started using a quiet flame, just hissing, and worked it closer to the weld. For joints that were 90 degrees or so I found that, before, I was using too little flame and getting in too close, causing a lot of backfiring. Once I switched to using an angrier flame and backed it off from the weld a little more I was able to get a better weld. It was tricky because this thin metal would burn through on one side of the joint easily. I burned holes in three or four places that I later had to fill in. I was never able to get the pool to form in the crease. It was always two pools on either side then I used filler to join the two pools. To maximize the strength of the joint between the round tube (hinge) and the top of the frame, I tacked the round tube at each end, then I laid a piece of 1/2" x 1/8" bar along the tube so that one edge was along the middle of the of the tube and the other edge was along the top edge of the frame (5th pic). I used a hotter flame and focused most of the heat along the edge of the bar, pushing its pool together with the smaller pool formed on the adjacent part. I also used filler to ensure plenty of metal in the joint. Because the frame is so large, I didn't want move it at all until I had all the joints completely welded. This meant I had to lay on my back and weld upside down on the bottom of each joint. That was interesting to say the least. I was concerned about molten metal dripping down onto me, but I found that the weld pool stayed in place very well. One more thing I learned was that I was using too much oxygen in my welds (along with too much acetylene pressure). Some of my welds were bubbling and sparking a lot. Once I backed the pressure down and was more careful about how much oxygen I was adding to get a "neutral" flame, things got much better. A side benefit is that I'm using much less oxygen. I emptied my oxygen tank much faster than my acetylene before. Now it's just the opposite. Last edited by jimgood; 12-28-2011 at 09:25 AM. |
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#103
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Well Jim Birds or no Bird them welds are starting to look GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Like a wise old man that helped me lean what little I know about welding once told me, if it works take the credit! Nice job!
__________________
"If you don't know where your going, any road will get you there." Alice in Wonderland. Ray Rodman Manager of BuglytoolS Intergalactic Division! Center of the most disgruntled employees in the universe!! |
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#104
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Thanks, Ray! I'm definitely starting to feel more comfortable with it. I should have it all figured out by the time I start on the second one.
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#105
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Here is the bird barrier nearly finished. I'll try to get a better pic up tomorrow that shows some of the details.
This frame is covered on the outside with chicken wire. I used 1"x3" pieces of 1/16" bar with self-tapping screws to clamp the wire in place and supplemented it with zip ties. There are four things left to do. I need to mount a pulley system to raise the frame when I need to get the tractor in and out. I have all the parts, I just need to work up the courage to get up on a ladder in the rafters to mount it. Sixteen feet isn't very high, but it's just about at the maximum height for my ladder and it's very shaky. I also need to mount some hooks on the side of the frame to hold it against the wall at the bottom (it's sprung out about two inches). There are gaps at the top and bottom that need to be filled in. I'll do that with some 2" x 2" wood. The last thing is to mount a loop on the bottom of the frame. This is where the pulley hook will attach. I already forged a loop (basically an upside down "U") from some 1/4" round bar. I just coated it with Penetrol and, once it's dry, I'll screw it on with the self-tapping screws. I still have to repeat the process for the door on the west wall. That one I'm going to fit between the posts instead of flat against the inside of the posts like this one. I intended to do that with this one, but I screwed up when I was measuring and, once I welded the frame together, I figured I'd mount it this way instead of cutting it apart and redoing it. All in all, I think it came out pretty good. I wanted it to be as unobtrusive as possible. I have a lot of time into this. I think the frame took about 10 hours to cut, fit and weld. The small pieces, like the hanger brackets took about six hours. The biggest waste was fixing miter cuts that weren't correct. I bought a DeWalt cutoff saw with the carbide blade thinking it would save some time because it cuts so cleanly but blade deflection is a significant problem. It's also difficult to cut small pieces like those for the hanger brackets. Painting took about 4 hours, but had to be done over two weeks to wait for warm spells. Hanging the chicken wire took about 5 hours. About half of that time was trial and error. Now that I know how to do it, it'll take half that time. So, 25 hours altogether but I think I can cut that time in half for the next one. Last edited by jimgood; 01-08-2012 at 04:05 PM. |
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#106
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The pulley above the barrier frame needs to hang between two of the ceiling trusses above the door. My original idea was to just screw a piece of 1" sq. x 48" tubing across them and hang the pulley from that. It doesn't have to hold much weight. But I decided to over engineer it and the result is below. The angle brackets on the ends are actually two pieces of flat bar welded together. The tubing is 2" square 1/8".
I learned yet another thing the hard way. DON'T QUENCH WELDED PIECES IN WATER!! I quenched the left end and it hardened to the point that I was unable to drill the screw holes. I ate up three titanium drill bits before I realized what the problem was. I ended up using the torch to cut the holes. The right end was fine because it cooled on its own while I was welding the left one.
Last edited by jimgood; 01-16-2012 at 09:09 AM. |
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#107
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This was a great thread, I just read the whole thing and I feel like I learned a lot. Do you have any pointers for guys who are like you were when you first posted this thread?
__________________
Joe Irons - Novice Metal Shaper - Artist - American Some Favorite Sites: Metal Store-Good Priced Metals Mittler Bros. Machine & Tool-Made In The USA Tools Hand Made Seat Co-I Want Metal Skills Like This Guy |
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#108
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Joe best advice I can give ya when you start learning to weld is :
"If you smell something burning, stop and put yourself out!"
__________________
"If you don't know where your going, any road will get you there." Alice in Wonderland. Ray Rodman Manager of BuglytoolS Intergalactic Division! Center of the most disgruntled employees in the universe!! |
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#109
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Quote:
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#110
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Which book helped you?
__________________
Just starting out - I haven't got a clue - but I'm enjoying myself. |
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