Bleeding hydraulic cylinders on shear?

[oldgoaly]

I don't have a manual for the shear(Wysong) , this looks to be a add-on power set. Proper way to bleed air from cylinders? unit is wired, pump running the right direction. I have cycled the blade up and down about 4 times, don't have the blade guard bolted on yet so won't try to cut till the gap is set, anyone have Wysong manual? Just thinking out loud but Pexto clearances should work for a Wysong? don't you think? pictures later, painting it.....oh was it ugly!!!! Thanks! tt

[anders nørgaard]

Hi Terry,

Don't knoow which model your shear is, but try taking a look at thid site
http://www.wysongpartsandservice.com...ofile.php?ID=5
Inventory list in the right side column has got a lot of nice pdfs in it

[oldgoaly]

Ander's
I had found that site before I bought this shear, this one started out life as a foot operated shear, but has the Lincoln motor/pump/tank that the H-52 model shear has. Still no pics as Joel has the camera... should be painted by tomorrow! be glad when it is done! Thanks for the help! tt

[bobadame]

I have one of those. According to someone in their service department about 5 years ago, set the center of the blade to .001 clearance. Set the ends to .0015 to .002. Of course first shim the machine to take out any stresses in the frame that might be caused by an uneven floor. Then adjust the sliding clearance of the knife bar. Then set the blade clearance.

To get the air out pull the pin on the cylinder ends and rotate them so the rod ends clear the machine. Cycle the system to the extents of the cylinders a few times.

[oldgoaly]

Bob,
Thanks for the info, had trouble getting the pins out, those darn snap rings! You should have seen Joel fight with them!!!! hehehe a good learning experience!
There was a old timers trick I vaguely remember, if shear cuts paper cleanly it set good..... yep it cut paper nicely! thin paper too! So tomorrow the paint should be dry and we can finish the bleeding! We also may add a piece of plexiglass on the outside of the hold down bar, that should make it safer than it is now. Has yours have a protector for the hold down? Thanks! tt

[bobadame]

No guard on mine. Can't get a tape measure through there with a guard. With a stomp shear it's not easy to get fingers in the blade area while jumping on the tread. Probably a good idea to have it on a powered shear though.

[oldgoaly]

There is a thin sheet of plastic on the blade side of the hold down, but if one tried hard enough you may get your fingers squished under the hold down.
I still remember the sound a 10' Wysong made cutting Lufkin steel rule:o a experienced tinner had cut about 10-12" off the 4' rule, old Norm Klemme was mad (his ruler). Even made mention that even "Sheepdog " (me) heard it, with all that hair oh how much fun it was to be the new guy! I do remember those shop safety talks, that is why I'm being safe, not so much for my sake, but Joel and any others who visit. tt
pictures are here well some.... only 50 in the workshop, paint is sticky yet..... http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/album.php?albumid=278

[bobadame]

That's the same shear I have. It's even exactly the same color. Mine has a home made back stop.

[steamingd]

For mild steel, knife clearance should be set a 7% of the material thickness. When a variety of thicknesses are cut, set it for 7% of the thinnest material. The center should be .001 to .002 closer than on the ends. Not sure of how the clearance is adjusted on that model, but if the table slides to adjust the clearance, making the center closer may not be needed if the shear is not very long, but the center should definately not be greater than on the ends. If the thinnest steel being cut is .025" thick, then the clearance should be .0035". Less knife clearance increases shearing pressure. More clearance leaves a larger burr. Excess clearance will fold the material and put very high stress on the shear. Shearing 300 series stainless requires less clearance than mild steel.

I cut a wide variety of thickness on my shear, from 22 ga. to 1/4". I set my knife clearance about .006" because most of the material I shear is 11 ga. I do get a burr on thinner material. but don't want to close the clearance to eliminate the burr because it puts to much pressure on the shear when cutting the 1/4" Some newer shears have an adjustment that can be dialed in in seconds for the material being cut. Mine is not quite that new (1936).

Do follow Bobadme's advice. The shear needs to be set so that the sliding surfaces are not in a bind due to the shear being in a twist.

[oldgoaly]

Seems like we are going backwards on bleeding, we know we have about a gallon of fluid to go back into system. With air in it we were able to cycle the shear. so to bleed we took the cylinder loose. oh what fun those pins are!
Cycling the shear we slowly lost pressure??????? So we took the return line and put in into fill hole, just a little trickle???? So time to check filter or screen, which meant taking pump loose to get to pick-up tube panel. We notice lovejoy coupling is rather close to coming uncoupled, ok adjusted that. There is a tube attached to the pump that goes to tank? pressure relief? Back to the filter, spotless! So put it all back together, spin by hand everything feel and looks good. Turn it on motor runs then bogs down??? high pressure? lines show tension. So we think we may have moved the tube from the pump to the tank?

wysongshear1..jpg

could the overflow/pressure relief hose be in to tight? or too loose? I'm stuck! It spins freely by hand! tt