Libert Shear drive coupling replacement

[Gene_Olson]

Cripes, only 60 years old and it's worn out already. <g>

The Libert has a rubber hose style coupling/shock absorber 1"id 2" od with about 20 ply reinforcing. and 4 1/2 inches long.

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/s...=1&cat=998

Anybody know a source for that?

Gene

[Wray Schelin]

Hi Gene,

Post a picture, maybe a substitute can be suggested, or a way to inexpensively make the part.

Wray

[Peter Miles]

Libert is still in business and says that virtually all parts are still available.

Libert Machine Corp.
324 N. Roosevelt St.
Green Bay, WI 54301
(920) 432-2408

I picked up one of their machines last summer and have been gradually reconditioning it. I got a parts manual and several small parts from them so far.

One of the family members (maybe a grandson) is still there at least a few days a week and actually built a number of these machines 50 years ago.

Mine's a model 1036 (10 ga, 36" throat). Which model do you have?

The couplings on mine are very stiff, but still seem viable.

[Gene_Olson]

Originally Posted by Peter Miles

Libert is still in business and says that virtually all parts are still available.

Libert Machine Corp.
324 N. Roosevelt St.
Green Bay, WI 54301
(920) 432-2408

I picked up one of their machines last summer and have been gradually reconditioning it. I got a parts manual and several small parts from them so far.

One of the family members (maybe a grandson) is still there at least a few days a week and actually built a number of these machines 50 years ago.

Mine's a model 1036 (10 ga, 36" throat). Which model do you have?

The couplings on mine are very stiff, but still seem viable.

Wow,

Thank's Peter.

Mine is a 1036 as well. serial # A8812.

Gene

[Wray Schelin]

Hi Gene,

I believe you can get neoprene rubber like that with the 1" dia. hole in it from McMaster Carr. You can buy it in lengths. It is commonly used as die spring material. Urethane will work too.

Wray

[Gene_Olson]

.

Please note, the 4 1/2 measurement above was estimated from placing the broken parts next to each other. When the same part number part, was removed from the front linkage prior to failure the part was 4.25 long. Holes are 2.25 OC and 90 deg apart, and 1 inch from each end. The one inch part is needed clearance on the front link)

Originally Posted by Wray Schelin

Hi Gene,

I believe you can get neoprene rubber like that with the 1" dia. hole in it from McMaster Carr. You can buy it in lengths. It is commonly used as die spring material. Urethane will work too.

Wray

I had in my own muddled fashion come to the same conclusion, after looking at all the modern flex ones made with tough modern materials that were unavailable in 1947.
I say, hey. This stuff should be strong enough without all those plies.

I'll give Libert a call, but I think a urethane tube from my friend down in Lake City would probably do the trick.


G

[Gene_Olson]

I called Libert but they didn't have any couplings in stock, so I called Acrotec in Lake City, MN 800-345-0583 and they cut a piece of in stock 95 durometer urethane tube and had it to me the next day.

Installed and running, it looks like it should work just fine.

As I look at the specs for flex couplings from a commercial source, the low end ones are edpm and neoprene, the high strength ones are urethane.

We shall see.

Gene

[mobrien]

It sounds like you have a flex coupling, any power transmission wholesaler should be able to help. Grainger repair parts can help also, they carry them in their catalog in 1/2''part no 2x499 . Also check out their 3 piece "Lovejoy" couplings

[Gene_Olson]

Okay,

I purchased the Libert Manual and discovered that there are indeed, two flex couplings. One buried inside the casting behind the power head. As I was playing with it, I noted that it had same feel to it that had preceded the failure of the rear linkage, so I decided to replace the front as well.

here is the machine.

To get the head out, there is a dog that runs in a groove in the side of the head, this must be removed. ( it is not in the parts diagram from Libert <g>) (See, those incomplete tech manuals we complain about have a long lineage.)


To pull it forward you need to disconect one side of the rear linkage. (ie replace both at once)

With the dog out and the coupling freed, remove the cam link pin from the clevis on the front, the two 1/2 inch bolts that hold the ram guide on and the entire power head comes out.

Once you have it out

and then you put it back together.

cross holes in the urethane are 25/64 and 90 deg and 2.25 inches apart (on center) they are 1" from the ends.

see diagram in previous post

G.

[Peter Miles]

I'm stuck working on this project in Chicago now until at least the end of July, so I don't think that I'll get back to putting my Libert back together before then.

When I do, I'll definitely replace the couplings with the modern material.

Are you putting the exterior clamp straps back on also?