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Pullmax, Trumpf, and other nibblers All types of 'nibblers', their function, design differences, wiring, modifications, and specialized tooling .

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Old 09-17-2010, 10:29 PM
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Default Alba Pullmax Beading Technique

Alba PullMax Beading Technique- Tutorialized at Waldon's Speed Shop- By John Alba and Blake, Bobby Waldon assisting.

Over the past half century the Pullmax has been used in a variety of ways to form and shape metal, the original designers of the Pullmax would never have dreamed of.
Now we have a new technique to add to the vault of ideas; this one a new beading technique developed by John Alba will allow almost any shape or pattern of bead and can be used to form a radius bead or squared bead and even embossing



Traditionally, in the upper tool holder is a small football shape the width of the bead you are forming minus the material thickness. The lower beading tool is a hollowed out ditch shape for the formed bead to run through, resembling the profile of a “U” or “hotdog bun” (photo above). Although this method has been used for years, the traditional method is challenging to achieve clean beads, very limiting on the designs that can be performed and the repeatability available.

The Alba Pullmax Beading Technique is very different; John’s method uses pre cut shapes and forms to the desired design (idea when making multiple identical panels). An upper and lower form are required and can be cut from 3/8ths or ½ inch MDF depending on the depth of the bead. John uses laser cut forms but forms can be cut by using a router or band saw.


Here an “x” shape has been cut to demonstrate one beading possibility. The upper form is 1/2 inch MDF, with the “X” pattern being ¾ inch wide.
The lower form is also ½ inch MDF, with the “X” pattern being ½ inch wide. Notice the alignment holes in both pieces; these will need to be transferred into the blank.

An 18 gauge blank is placed under the form and a transfer punch is used to locate the drill location of the holes.






After the holes are drilled, a counter sink is used for the counter sunk machine screws (¼ 20)



Once the machine screws are tight, small “C” clamps are placed on the four corners of the form to add pressure on the blank (this helps keep the part flat once it has been formed)

The upper tooling or “punch” shown above all have a common bearing size of half inch; this allows the same upper form to be used with different size beads. (The lower form can be change to achieve a sharper bead.)
The punch is made from 5/8th round stock to fit John’s T-3 . Because the punch is round it’s orientation inside the tool holder is not important, square shanks do not need to be use, this helps cut down on material cost and machining cost.


Another added benefit of using the 5/8 round stock is bushings can be used over the 5/8th to enlarge the tooling size for use different series Pullmax. This tool was originally made for John's T-3 but fit in Waldons' Pullmax machine, with a bushing.( almost any bushing can be used to up size the shank, even rubber hose)

With the blank in place, John sets up the machine. By adjusting the pullmax, with the machine off bring the lower tool holder up so the tooling just touches the blank.

Bobby Waldon donated the use of his shop to help make this tutorial. He is helping out with this demonstration, he was quick to pick up the wd-40, and man the pullmax leaver.





The bead forming is a process, the panel is fed in, a complete pass is made and then the handle is lowered a little followed with another pass. After 5 passes the pullmax is in the furthest down position and the bead forming process is complete.


John pulls off the clamps, with Bobby looking on.

Bobby inspects the part, and doesn’t feel like the job is finished.

Until he gets to hit it with a big hammer.




A minute later, and we have a perfectly flat beaded panel with a draw of over .300ths.



This thread is unfinished, I will be including shaped beads, square beads, embossing and more to come over the next few days
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Last edited by Unknowing; 09-29-2010 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:48 PM
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Looks good John. Are you going to demo the procedure at MetalMeet?
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:04 AM
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Nice job John. Have you tried doing V shaped beads? I may have a job for ya.
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:19 AM
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Interesting John! got a suggestion, get a copy and co-ordinate table (or clone one) The Trumpf I saw was much better than the Pullmax style. tt (if you were doing this everyday? 901 series Trumpf w c X c table, I almost bought one, they are large machines!)
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:25 AM
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John thank you for the tutorial now it makes sence.
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:37 AM
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Very nice John thanks for putting this together and letting us see it.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:02 AM
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Hey Randy--Yes V shaped beads are some of the easiest as they have the least draw.

Larry- Yes this and some of my other techniques will be demoed at this years meet in Oblong-

John
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:19 AM
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Looks good John thank for sharing

Wouldn't the V-shaped bead require some kind of straight fence to keep the sheet oriented to the (I guess) chisel shaped upper die?
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:49 AM
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Regarding the "v" shape bead- The tooling would be identical to the above tooling, except instead of it being rounded at the punch end it will be chiseled.

I wish I could draw it-- Everything the same but the last 1/4 inch to a chisel

John
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:06 AM
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John,

That was what I was understanding it would look like and that was why I asked if you would need a fence. The way I see it, a fence running parallel to the chisel edge would be necessary.... or the bead could easily get a "variable width bottom"
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