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| Novice sheetmetal shapers Simple hand tool methods of sheetmetal shaping. |
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#1
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hi - been a while since i posted.
well not since the forum crashed anyway... i have a question (again!). i made new drip rails for my 69 Ranchero project. i also had to cut a strip out of the roof (where the rail and roof meet). because there is no support behind it, it warped and dented quite badly. i am unable to get in behind the panel due to a support brace underneath. is there a way of getting these dents out or minimising their appearance? or at least know what to avoid for the other side. (i will try and take some pics tonight). i have really basic tools: hammer and dollies, pliers, gas welder, etc. thanx! |
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#2
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Do you have any pictures to help understand your problem?
__________________
Rick Scott second mouse gets the cheese |
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#3
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Without seeing the problem it is hard to advise on your specific problem but there are some general rules of thumb that you need to understand.
Welding involves heat- heat distorts, no matter whether you use mig, tig or gas the welding process will cause some distortion, This distortion needs to be planished out if you are to achieve a good finish. In order to planish you need to get to both sides of the panel, often this will mean having to either remove inner panels to gain access (prior to carrying out the repair) or making the repair section large enough to bring the joint in an area that can be accessed. Sometimes it is not possible either for economic or time restraint reasons to replace a panel in the way I suggested above, in these cases it will be a case of doing what you can to remove the worst of the distortion and lead loading the remaining damage. when you post some photos it will be possible to advise on ways to improve the situation. David
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Metalshaping with hand tools DVD- www.metalshapingzone.com Youtube footage showing hand skills http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 |
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#4
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thanx guys.
i will take some shots at lunch time quickly - came into work with it today. David, i wish my welding skills were up with yours already... i also think the set i am borrowing is not in the best shape. think the regulators might be buggered, as the length of the the blue flame tip keeps fluctuating. |
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#5
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took some pics at lunchtime.
not the best, but i hope it explains my situation. if not, i will try and take better pics over the weekend. ![]() ![]() ![]() the drip rail still has to be finished of - so don't mind the skewness of it! ![]() and this is my first metal project ever - learned some basic techniques from BarryA at his metalmeet gathering last year. so, if there is any explanations, keep it simple so i can understand plz! i am only a graphic designer |
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#6
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By the looks of that thick substance under the paint, dont know what it's called never used it before
, it seems the roof was damaged before you welded?Can you get anything in there to lift the low areas with, like a spoon, small pry bar or whatever you have at hand? If not you should consider to cut out some of the inner structure to get better access. Pictures can lie, but it looks like its too much distortion to fill to me. /Anders |
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#7
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Anders, pics don't lie - massive warpage.
thick "bead" is filler rod looks like then have cut support brace out - dammit! can't get in from the back it is too badly dented to filler... mmm... so you learn... |
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#8
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You have a bit of a problem there!
Some jobs are just bigger than they look. Unfortunately you have tried to take a shortcut and it has made the job bigger. It would have been a good idea to clean back a lot further that stuff has burned which can't be a good thing. You may have got away with using a mig to do what you did but with gas you need to be able to get to both sides of the panel. If I were doing this I would start again, make a new section larger than the section you welded in, I would remove the inner structure before welding in the new part. You have lost the shape so you would need patterns taken from the other side. (an fsp might work). If you are happy to have some filler in it you may be able to get it straight enough once you have removed the inner structure. Sorry this is all I can come up with at the moment. David
__________________
Metalshaping with hand tools DVD- www.metalshapingzone.com Youtube footage showing hand skills http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 |
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#9
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thanx David.
i was afraid that might be the solution. it wasn't a case of trying a shortcut. in my mind's eye i thought it was the way to go. i don't really have much experience and things happen trial by error. this is thing is so rust ridden, i have at times thought to get rid of it. i am inspired (and depressed!) every time i watch your DVD. i don't have loads of money to buy tools needed and have to make do with what i have. currently using a borrowed gas welding set, but hope ti buy a second hand set by end this month. so, i guess it is back to the drawing board trying to figure this out. ![]() thanx for the help guys! i have to go drink now... |
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#10
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A other option might be to make a new patch that goes deeper into the roof, moving the weld line clear of the inner structure.
Frank
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Je leert hier elke dag wat! |
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