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| New style power hammers Fabricated steel frame, i.e. Bailiegh, Bam Bam, Dake, Shop Dog and shop built hammers. |
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#41
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Per your request, here are some more pics of the Small power hammer originally designed by Carl Adams. Originally from California, he is now in Mooresville, N.C.. I spoke with him this afternoon and he mentioned that he has (3) of these left.I assume in 'kit' form, as I did not see any that were assembled when I last visited about 2-months ago.
I made mine from one of his 'kits', made the guard and a few additional items and use this machine quite often, I especially like the linear stretch die as it is quite quick and does not leave many marks at all. I installed a one HP motor and an on-off switch. It is unusually quiet and handy to mount any where in the shop. After finishing a larger power hammer, I have moved this to be near it as I use it in conjunction so as to have both a shrinker and a stretcher set up near each other. Last edited by RockHillWill; 07-27-2011 at 04:35 PM. |
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#42
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More Shrink Positive Pics.
PM me for his phone number if you have an interest. He is quite busy with water pumps and may not answer right away. One of the pictures shows his design of a linear stretch design that leave a gorgeous finish on the one side. |
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#43
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thanks for the pictures, thats a nice looking machine. i wish i had the cash to buy one right now, i am trying to build one first from stuff i have mostly just here doing nothing. i may just end up with a pile of scrap metal when i am done who knows.
here is a link to the thread that had the drawing in it that i was thinking of building.it was by richard k its the first post. anyone using one set up like this first one yet? http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5394 Last edited by exline; 07-27-2011 at 05:17 PM. |
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#44
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After I saw Richards shrinker, I built mine. I like it as it doesnt take up a lot of room and is quiet.
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#45
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DIY eBay hammer from an auction 5 or 6 years ago.
cheers, Michael
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http://www.eurospares.com |
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#46
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Here's the one I built in 2008. Slightly different from most others as the eccentric is in the back bone of the machine. Movement is transfered to the front through a walking beam. Beam is adjustable up and down while machine is running. Works pretty well and is nice and quiet. It's on wheels and just sits there and runs without moving around. Links work good for no more effort that I put into them. Front half of the upper arm isn't really needed, it's just there as a guard.
Just made a set of doming dies for it a couple weeks ago and they worked real well. Parts came out fully planished with nothing left to do but polish them. PICT0658.jpg
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Bob |
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#47
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Hi Bob
Quote:
Bruno |
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#48
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Thanks Bruno,
The walking beam is anchored with a sliding pivot in the middle of the upper arm. One end rides on a bearing pressed onto the eccentric and the other end holds the upper tool holder. The beam is about 1" thick and 3" wide, maybe more in the center. There is a spring above the back end that keeps pressure on the beam to hold it on the bearing. That spring tension is adjustable. The ratio of the beam is 1 to 1, but could be more or less if a person wanted. I don't recall the offset of the eccentric right now, but it's adjustable too. I believe that idea came from Richard K. I had it running faster when I first built it and found that with the mass of the beam, it would overcome the spring tension and provide a slight overhit. At the time, my goal was power shrinking and I felt the overhit was fighting me. So I slowed it down to remove the overhit. I've often thought about dual pulleys to be able to go back to the overhit, but just haven't had a need for it. I intend to change the lower tool holder to allow it to be slid into the lower arm and locked in position. Kind of Eckold like. That would make tool changes easier, but it isn't real bad right now. Just could be better. This concept could easily be made as a dual headed machine with one motor and one eccentric. Both sides would work in tandem. Here's some more build photos. First is the sliding pivot. The red spring pushes it up, while the screw lowers it. There are 4 points of control for it and that was the hardest part of building the machine. In retrospect, the pivot rod could have been riding in a bolted on piece on each side of the upper arm. There's no real pressure on them where they nest in the slots in the arm. The flanged bushings are for control of the beam to keep it centered. I later added guides at the front end of the beam to help with side movement of the beam. The casters lock, but they never get locked. This is a smooth running machine and just sits there and quietly runs. There is a foot pedal not shown in the photos that starts the clutch motor. It's kind of variable speed, but not a lot of adjustment in that regard. Mostly I push the pedal and go to work. Last two photos was when I was adjusting the tool holders, getting ready to add the links. That is my shrinking dies in process in them. PICT0559.jpgPICT0566.jpgPICT0568.jpg
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Bob |
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#49
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Hi Bob
Thank you very much for explaining. Did you think about a possibility to move the pivot in the horizontal way? Then it will be possible to change the stroke . Isn't it? I don't now whether it's necessary. I don't have a Power Hammer (But a mechhammer! ![]() Bruno Quote:
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#50
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How many beats per minute do you run the machine at typically? About how long is the walking beam?
Interesting design.
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John Ron Covell and Peter Tomasini metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane.nittler@gmail.com for price and availability. |
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