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| How Do You Make This Panel? Do you have a patch panel or special panel that you need some help with? If you do, here is where to find the answers. |
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#1
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I am going to try to fabricate a cobra fender.I laid out masking tape on the fiberglass buck from what I saw on the swedes web site. Question ..
1) Is this buck adequate or should I make a wire form and bondo buck? 2) Is the tape laid out correctly and am I to assume that the sections are to be fabricated individually? This is my first attempt at fabricating a part that is to be welded together.The tools that I have to work with are. metal ace e-wheel,panel beaters bag.shrinker/stretcher set,and some wooden mallets.Also I plan on using .050 3003 h14 aluminum. thanks for your help.....George |
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#2
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Hi George,
Great, you're ready to start, this should be fun. Like I said in my last post, it is best if you keep everyone up to date on your progress, that way everyone benifits . I will first off ask a few questions. Do you have the whole fiberglass body in sections to make the panels from? Can you also add a few more pictures showing the whole fender from every angle and the top view? Before you do that though number each subpanel with a bold magic marker so everyone will be able to see the individual sub panels. Also use a colored tape to define the boundries of each sub panel. If you can cut holes in the buck, you will have an ideal buck to work from. Can you cut holes ? The best type of holes would be oblong slots that will allow you to clamp the perimeter of each sub panel. there will be quite a few holes needed. The holes will also allow you to see how well the subpanels are fitting. You can use a router to cut the slots. The best clamps to use are hand spring clamps that you can buy from a wood working supply house . They sell for around $1.00 ea. if you fnd them on sale . I add rubber to the tips to increae there holdiing power. You'll need at least a dozen of them. I'm also assuming that the fiberglass fender is the true size of the panel, if you make the new panlels to fit over the fiberglass fender it will be slightly bigger than the original . You will gain about 1/8" over all in the width and length of the car which really doesn't matter. If you can't or won't cut holes in the fiberglass, then there are other methods that you will have to use. Cutting the holes and using the fiberglass fender as a true surface buck will allow you to easily make many copies of the body. You have to weigh that possibility against later selling the fiberglass panels to be built back into a body for someone that wants to go the fiberglass route. As for the aluminum I would suggest using .060" rather than .050" . You will need that little extra .010" and will be glad you have it when the time arrives when it becomes apparent. One reason is the extra strength. Do you plan on protecting the inner fender with a liner to protect from flying rocks? Aluminum fenders will dent very easy from debris that gets stuck in the tire treads and then gets thrown against the aluminum, causing an unwanted dent. Liners of some sort are the usual prescription for road cars. You have all of the tools needed except a couple of tucking tools and you didn't mention how you will be welding the panels together. I'm looking forward to watching your progress. This is a great winter project . Where are you located ? Thanks for offering to spot light your project , everyone will be grateful Wray
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Wray click here to visit My New Ebay Store Shrinking Discs,BeaterBags,DVD Comprehensive sheetmetal shaping classes, offered one weekend every month. Please e-mail me direct for more information. wesparts@charter.net |
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#3
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George,
You probably know about flexible shape patterns, but for review take a look. http://people.delphiforums.com/snotz...erpatterns.htm ![]() This is the next step in your project.
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Regards, Paul In The Poconos USA Over 20 Yrs. Fabricating Fine Wooden Furniture |
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#4
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George,
Great project you have there. I am a long-time Cobra fan and will be very interested to see your progress on this. I'm sure you have probably seen Chuck's Daytona Coupe project, but for those who have not, it's worth a look. http://members.aol.com/COUPECHUCK/ I am also planning on building a one-off Daytona Coupe and while the original plan was to go with a fiberglass body, I have decided to go with aluminum. I'll be using the same method of using a fiberglass part as a buck. Wray, I can't tell you how much I have learned just by browsing through this site a few times. I'll be looking forward to following the guidance you and others provide. Thanks! |
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#5
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Quote:
__________________
Regards, Paul In The Poconos USA Over 20 Yrs. Fabricating Fine Wooden Furniture |
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#6
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I picked up the fender and a hood that is good shape from a local body shop,apperently the car was involved in an accident so these are the only parts I have to work with but my intentions are to practise on the fender and hood and then fabricate a complete body.
I do not have a problem with routering holes in the fender,,,hey if the end result is better I am all for it!! and it makes sense to use the .060 material no big deal there. As far as the welding goes,,,I have a Henrob torch.I went ahead and used electrical tape to define the boundaries for the subpanels and used a magic marker to make the numbers bigger.here are the pics,,,,,,,,,,(side view) |
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#7
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#8
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#9
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#10
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This should be interesting ,,,,,an online tutorial on metal shaping,,looking forward to it!!
another question,,,,,would it be easier to fit the panels to the buck if the fender flare was cut off? thanks for everyones suggestions George/York Pa |
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