Wire Form From Fiberglass

[Dutch Comstock]

Howard, I think you are getting to worried about the buck.The fibregass body will give you the perfect buck to make your shape patterns from and then make contour gages of the outside surface and in no time you will have your finished panels and then you can make your wire form buck from your new metal tail. Dutch

[anders nørgaard]

Howard,

I've been looking a little around. I knew, I had something about a midget racer somewhere 8) Now I found it It was from the danish edition of Popular Mechanics Magazine, sep. 1951.

Went searching on the net and here is what I found:

http://www.pastpaper.com/List-MechanicsPopMech1950s.htm

These guys have some PPMs for sale.

June, 1950 Midget Racers – 2 copies G/VG $12.50
July 1951 How to Build This Midget Racer - 3 copies Good $10.00

I'm sure you can find what you are searching fore here.

In the article in the danish edition, the sides of the front is 16 gauge steel. The front is a 1936 Plymouth sized down to fit and the tail is welded together from two rear ends from the rear fenders from a 1940 Buick.

I don't have a scanner, but I can borough one if you want me to post the article :wink: 8)

Anders DK

[slobitz18222]

Howard.
The glass taill that you have has a rleief or joggle about an inch wide and that is where the diaper fits . Once I get caught up with my holiday business I will post a photo of a new kurtis diaper stamping.
The panels were all 3003 h14 16 gauge which formseasily and holds up under use better than 1100 soft aluminm

[metalfid]

Anders - Thanks for digging up the Popular Mechanics references. I will contact them. There were certainly a lot of interesting articiles back then. I was especially intrigued by the personal helicopter.

Dutch - You're probably right about the flexible pattern and contour gauges. I was thinking that this was too complex a shape for this technique, but if you break it up into pieces it should work. I guess the only thing to watch out for is that if I take the shape from the outside of the glass, it may not fit the chassis attach points perfectly, but I could take care of that when I'm tacking the panels together before final welding.

Stan - Thanks, I wondered what that joggle was for. I'd appreciate seeing a picture.

[metalfid]

Stan,

The MetalMart web site shows 16 ga. in steel as being .063" thick and 16 ga. in aluminum being .051" thick. When you you said the Kurtis midgets are 16 ga. which of these numbers were you referring to?

Many thanks,
Howard

[anders nørgaard]

Howard,

In the article in the danish edition, the sides of the front is 16 gauge steel

Anders DK

[metalfid]

Hi Anders,

Were the cars in your book made out of steel? I thought they were all aluminum.

Howard

[anders nørgaard]

Hi Howard,

Nope, they were all steel

In the article in the danish edition, the sides of the front is 16 gauge steel. The front is a 1936 Plymouth sized down to fit and the tail is welded together from two rear ends from the rear fenders from a 1940 Buick.

Anders DK

[metalfid]

Hi Anders,

Well, they must have been quite sturdy cars!

Thanks,
Howard