Fixing a fender, where to start?

[tdoty]

Hi guys & gals!

I have a fender I would like to straighten out, and I'm wondering what would be the best spproach - hopefully I have this in the right forum.

This '85 Monte Carlo fender was damaged and not properly repaired, it was just slathered with filler. Well, it was hit again after the "repair". It also has a bit of rust damage to the inner lip, where the inner fender bolts on. The rust will, of course, require new metal to be welded in.

So, here is a pic of the fender:


The dent is pretty deep and the leading edge has been bent badly as well:


How would you go about repairing this? I figure the normal course of action would be to replace the fender, but I want to give a shot at fixing it.

I'm thinking the big bend by the parking light would need to come out first (well, okay, after all of the Bondo), and work toward the top from there fixing the front flange where the fascia bolts on. Working from there back to the wheel opening to straighten out the panel might work, or would I need to kind of "work around" to get everything back into shape? Concentrating on the front edge might make it extremely difficult to bring the rest of the metal up.

Any advice? It's just something I would like to try, since I've already taken the easy way out:


Thanks in advance !

Tim D.

[Wray Schelin]

Hi Tim,

Can you fix that fender to like new ? Yes, buy why spend the time? :shock: I think you'll learn more and enjoy the process more by making something new. It doesn't have to be automotive related.

If you insist on fixing that fender , then just keep whacking or pulling it it till it unfolds. Pulling will work best. A low buck method would be to use a comealong. If it won't unfold you'll have to cut it and then planish out the smaller pieces and weld them back up. After, you'll need to clean it up with a shrinking disc to remove all the stretch that was present.

I would guess you'll spend several days or better on that project.

Wray

[tdoty]

Wray,

Thanks for the advice! Yes, I know fixing it would really be a waste of time, but, would you believe I'm having trouble thinking up projects? I've done a couple of "skill builders" but have kind of hit a brick wall thinking up something I can work on right now, lol! I have a couple of projects I'd like to start, but I'm waiting on my bead roller from HF - got everything else on my order Thursday

We'll see what happens

Thanks again,

Tim D.

[Dutch Comstock]

Tim, when you are working on dent repair you have to reverse the point of impact to remove the dent. You have to go to the point of impact and attach to that spot and by reversing the process the dent will unfold.This was Wrays point when he metioned a come along.You hook the comealong to the point of the hit and the other end to a tree and start cranking and the dent will unfold and you hammer and dolly the dges to help release the dents with the pressure applied. With the fender off you have to figure out how to hammer pressure on the poit of impact to reverse the damage. A lot of time you would have to drill out the spotwelds on the inner filler on the fender to gain acess to the backside to metal finish that area.Dutch

While I cannot assist with the dint itself at present (as I have similar problem with my vehicle (project) and it is actually worse then yours) I can help you with the removal of all the paint and filler. (I would almost be happy with that amount of filler...mine has at least 3-4times the amount) anyways back to the topic...

In Australia 3M produce a thing called rust and paint remover. it is designed to go in you drill or the sister product which goes in your grinder. it basically is the plastic type of scotchbrite washing pad and if I was to put a grit level on it I would say it is a 1200 pad. With this it will strip the paint easily and any rust. it does take a little longer to remove filler due to the grit level but it is kind to the panel. Does get very messy and it is very wise to wear both a mask and goggles. That way you will be able to see all teh damage and work out the best plan of attack. Without this you can be decived a little as to which place to pull the affected area out. I have had a good look at my panel and feel it would be both more benefital to create a whole new apron than try and fix what I have. Not only that I learn a heap on the way.

I read this site and am completely inspired at his work. Seems to make things look so easy... , have a good look through his site. While the site is a little slow at times it does have some very good information and some terrific pics. Oh well I think it has got to the stage wear I have to actually try my hand at it. I few more reading of the site gaining knowledge and I Think I will give it a go.

Cheers

Tim

[CCWKen]

A new repro fender runs 70-90 bucks. A yard fender about 100. Since this is in the "new steel" era, you're going to have problems welding on it AND geting it straight. Every time you try and pull any folds out, it will probably crack at the fold. You're going to put a lot of work and materials into this and the results will be disappointing.

Put on a new fender and save the old one for practice later. Get that great lookin' car back on the road!