No-Mar, Deep Hand Shrinking

[kit]

Originally Posted by anders nørgaard

For quite some time I've been thinking/wondering about Daniel Gunderson's (Dangunit) invention... the ultra dolly. Dan has made a great discription of how it works and how to use it! But I'm just a stupid Dane, not smart enugh to understand the terms of leading edge and trailing edge, s I just had to try to use some logic thinking and figure out how the metal ehaves and where I wanted it to move

That is exactly my position, except the bit about being Danish.
I must had read through this post tens of times, I think it is one of the most interesting ever posted on this site, but I still don't get exactly that point about the leading and trailing edge 'in action'.
A classic example of needing to just hit some metal to grasp it.

[Hotrod1932]

Well Dan come over to the Viking with me! Kit you come over too and we can all catch up there and come to grips with terminology

You guys are the metal shapers! The real crown of stupidity about all this is worn by the coffee drinking pharmacist want to be metal shaper!!

[anders nørgaard]

Originally Posted by Hotrod1932

Well Dan come over to the Viking with me! Kit you come over too and we can all catch up there and come to grips with terminology

You guys are the metal shapers! The real crown of stupidity about all this is worn by the coffee drinking pharmacist want to be metal shaper!!

Greatest idea I heard of in a long time!

That would be a win, win, win, win situation

[larry mullen]

Hell o
I,ve been following this thread , and also trying the shrinking tecnique out with an aluminum bell type bushing , has a 1.5 inch ID. it seems to work well or as well is Dangunit demos.Using it on 19 ga. steel .
Is there any real concern on what size hollow type dolly is used in relationship to the high area you are tying to shrink.??
Larry Mullen

[DanGunit]

Hey Guys,

Originally Posted by Carbuilder

Keep them coming are you still selling the donut dollys & posts.

Danny,

I am still selling them, but they are all hand made, and I am working on a couple big R&D projects right now, as well as setting up my shop in my new house, so they are special order with a long leadtime at the moment. Hopefully I can get my brother to start making them on his CNC's in the near future so that I can just keep them in stock.

Originally Posted by anders nørgaard

Greatest idea I heard of in a long time!

That would be a win, win, win, win situation

Anders / Ray,

Thanks for the invite, I have wanted to go to the viking meet for years now, being that my fathers side of the family is from Norway and I have never been to Scandanavia, but it is an expensive trip from California and I haven't had any luck convincing the wife that it's ok to travel 8000 miles for a metalshaping gathering (I also still haven't been able to get to Oblong which is considerably closer) . I'll keep working on it though, and who knows, maybe this will be the year it works out.

Originally Posted by larry mullen

Hell o
I,ve been following this thread , and also trying the shrinking tecnique out with an aluminum bell type bushing , has a 1.5 inch ID. it seems to work well or as well is Dangunit demos.Using it on 19 ga. steel .
Is there any real concern on what size hollow type dolly is used in relationship to the high area you are tying to shrink.??
Larry Mullen

Larry,

The only real concerns are:

(1) How fast or slow you want to shrink.

The larger diameter dolly will shrink faster than the smaller one because it effects a larger area per hit, and if you incline the dolly the larger one will have a greater vertical drop from the leading to trailing edge for a given angle.

This will let you shrink faster and deeper with the larger dolly on higher crowns and larger pieces, but I find that as you get the panel closer to flat the smaller dolly will actually do a better job of tightening the panel than the larger one because it effects a smaller area and requires less vertical drop to set the shrink, so it has less springback than the larger one and less risk of stretching if you get too agressive when the panel is near flat.

That is the reason I make them in multiple sizes with 2 different shrink rates per dolly, so you can match the dolly to the situation.


(2) How big an area are you trying to shrink.

Again, the larger dolly will effect a larger area per hit and speed things along if you have a big area to cover.


(3) What kind of clearance you have in the area you want to shrink.

In tight clearance or very high crown situations you might not have room to use the larger dollies, so if you have alot of metal to shrink you would either use the smaller dolly that fits in the location and use more hits, or, if possible, you would bend the panel out of arraingement to gain access with the larger dolly to do your major shrinking, then put it back into arraingement and blend the shrink to your final profile with the smaller dolly.

Cheers,

[larry mullen]

quote:

The only real concerns are:

(1) How fast or slow you want to shrink.

The larger diameter dolly will shrink faster than the smaller one because it effects a larger area per hit, and if you incline the dolly the larger one will have a greater vertical drop from the leading to trailing edge for a given angle.

This will let you shrink faster and deeper with the larger dolly on higher crowns and larger pieces, but I find that as you get the panel closer to flat the smaller dolly will actually do a better job of tightening the panel than the larger one because it effects a smaller area and requires less vertical drop to set the shrink, so it has less springback than the larger one and less risk of stretching if you get too agressive when the panel is near flat.

That is the reason I make them in multiple sizes with 2 different shrink rates per dolly, so you can match the dolly to the situation.


(2) How big an area are you trying to shrink.

Again, the larger dolly will effect a larger area per hit and speed things along if you have a big area to cover.


(3) What kind of clearance you have in the area you want to shrink.

In tight clearance or very high crown situations you might not have room to use the larger dollies, so if you have alot of metal to shrink you would either use the smaller dolly that fits in the location and use more hits, or, if possible, you would bend the panel out of arraingement to gain access with the larger dolly to do your major shrinking, then put it back into arraingement and blend the shrink to your final profile with the smaller dolly.

Cheers,


__________________
Daniel Gunderson 8)
Dan
makes sense Larry

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