Need help with silver solder project

[tusk]

I'm looking for help with a silver solder project. This is not metal shaping content so if the moderators want to delete this, do so and I'll understand.

Where I work we maching and finish grind wrist pins for a number of GM engines. They are ground to size on a thru feed grind line with cincinnati grindes with grind wheels about 24" in dia. X 3' long.
The wrist pins pas thru a pair of grind wheels and grind it to size after 3 grinds, ruff, semi and finish. In each opperation there are 2 plates with carbide silver soldered to it 36" long that the wrist pins
spin on as they pass thru each grinder..
We currently silver solder carbide on in 6" sections . Engineering now want them with a full peice of 36" carbide soldered to it. We don't know how to do this and NOT have warpage. Engineering wants
to job it out to a shop that does electro induction soldering which they claim has no warpage.

The rest plates are 3/4" X 4" X 36" hot rolles 1020 steel with a milled edge at about 45 degrees the length (36") of the rest plate. This is where the carbide gets soldered to. Ribbion solder is placed
between the carbide and the rest plate, then heated with a torch and soldered. From there the carbide is ground to the disred angle and ground straight

I sugested that a fixture with clamping be made to hold the rest plate along with clamping the full 36" of carbide then using a rose bud torch or even 2 to get it up to temp quickly, but they tell me it won't
work.
So I am looking for sugestions on how to do this
Remember we currently have not done more than 6" at a time. Any silver solder experts out there? I want to prove them wrong if I can.
Doug

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[tusk]

Also there is a machined lip for the carbide to locate against. The carbide size is 3/16"X 1/2". We also have an oven that can pre heat to around 900 degrees which is more than half way to the melting point of silver solder.

I have also thought about no preheat and using a product that I seen years ago that came in a can that you mix with water, make into a past and use as a heat dam which I think would help control warpage.

[larry mullen]

Doug
If you cannot get any answers here go to [Welding web .com.] they might be of some help .
Larry mullen

[tusk]

Thanks Larry I'll use that.

[oilpull]

At a place I worked at years ago, we had a electric powered bearing heater that was more like a magnet that cycled. Not real sure how it worked for sure but you could put a 12" roller bearing assembly on it and would turn almost red hot hot in around 30 minutes. It would steam spit in about 15 min. These bearings would be slid on a chilled shaft to shrink them in place. I pity the fool you had to change them when they wore out!!!!!
Something on this order may work.

[shortbus]

Since your carbide is not exposed to any real heat (like a cutting tool is) you could use one of theses type of solders. The "hard solders" (Stay-Brite) are the ones to pick. I worked at GM/Packard Electric and had to make up 'guides' with carbide faces on sheet metal brackets and this is what we used.

cary