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Old style - Yoder, Pettingel,Quickway, sheetmetal shaping power hammers All types of guided way power sheetmetal shaping hammers, including their specialized tooling.

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  #31  
Old 03-11-2012, 03:35 PM
Carbuilder Carbuilder is offline
 
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If I knew how to make & post a video i would post here. I have never done any thing on u tube I have enough trouble just posting picture's. If I get time this week I will do some more experimenting & post documentation of what I do. It is interesting watching this thing work.

I go in for 2 mri's one on my neck & the other on my lower back Monday the 19th then will meet with the doctor a few days later I hope to find out what is causing all the numbness in my right shoulder & legs wanting to give out along with hip problems.

Back to Kirmet the power hammer once I understand its function a little more & get a few more dies made I am sure it will be a great addition to form panels. I already know shrinking with my thumb nail dies in my pullmax & smoothing out with the hammer is a whole lot faster then shot bag or stump forming & wheeling out More to come.
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  #32  
Old 03-11-2012, 03:54 PM
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oldgoaly oldgoaly is offline
 
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Danny,
the site doesn't host (store) videos so that is why there are links to youtube, your using a windows based computer? here is the best place to get info http://www.windowsmoviemakers.net/Forums/ Depending on which version you windows you have pick the appropriate subforum and follow some how to videos and you'll need a scarf, hat,sunglasses and cut board as you direct all those movies you will be making.
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  #33  
Old 03-11-2012, 04:05 PM
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Dawai Dawai is offline
 
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Brother, perhaps I can help a tad? I use movie maker at times..

Open windows moviemaker, click on your movie icon that made with cell phone or other video movie camera, left mouse click, hold, drag and drop on the "pad" there on movie maker screen. This puts the movie on the pad.

It is now linked, Left click, Drag pull it down and drop it onto the "film strip" there on the bottom.. it can now be played in Movie maker. You can put several "movie clips together to make one movie". (put them on the pad one at a time and drag-drop them in the proper movie location)

Click special effects, you can add and edit movie headers titles and credits, fast motion, slow motion, text on screen.. fade in, Fade out.. all kinds of things. You can edit it right there, clip in, add titles and explanations.. YOU can even take snap shots and photos and make a slide show.. if you want to, or don't have a movie camera..

When you are done with making your movie, you can then "save movie file" and name it what-ever you choose.. it is now a .wmv movie. You can upload it to youtube, same deal.. open your account, choose upload video, and find the Movie you created and click on it.. it uploads to your youtube account.. Done deal.

When I was younger I would have never imagined things would be available to "average" people like us. I mean the big thing was "dick tracy's communicator watch".. big deal nowadays..
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Last edited by Dawai; 03-11-2012 at 04:14 PM. Reason: adding further explanation
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  #34  
Old 03-12-2012, 01:27 AM
kit kit is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbuilder View Post
Back to Kirmet the power hammer once I understand its function a little more & get a few more dies made I am sure it will be a great addition to form panels.
I think the best way to understand this kind of hammer is to imagine holding a couple of feet of rope stretched out tightly between your arms, the top tool is suspended in the centre of the rope.
If you wang your arms up and down evenly with each other that is the action of the machine.
How tightly you pull out on the rope makes all the difference to the hammering action of the top tool. That is what the spring does.
You could change your spring rate by moving it's position in the caliper shaped frame it is in, you can run it under less tension by extending the horizontal strapping.(A way of tuning is to make up a set of adjustable length shackles to fit in at the anchor points of your straping to alter how much you are pulling in your spring, once you get that right take them off and set her up to that length).
If you have the machine setup right, no matter how heavy the top tool setup is, you should be able to get the top and bottom tools to just lightly touch on the over stroke at the bottom of the range, then progresively hit harder the faster you spin her over.
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  #35  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:39 AM
Carbuilder Carbuilder is offline
 
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After getting back from visiting the surgen yep back & neck surgerys are in my soon to be future but it looks very promising. Going on friday to see another doc about some shot for temp relief till slice & dice time. I am good for about an hour & half at most in shop then have to get off my feet for a couple hrs to bring the pain back down.

Back to the power hammer yesterday I made a 1/2in thick spacer plate & raised my lower dies big difference not near the damage to the sheet metal quite smooth actualy. With the VFD & foot control I can feather it down to a crawl. It will smooth out the thumb nail shrink marks pretty fast now, faster then if I wheeled it I believe at least for the scrap piece I was playing with. I will try and shoot some pictures of a demo part soon.

One last thing some one wanted pictures of kirmet so they could maybe build there own go to the begining of this thread pictures are there & if you need more let me know.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:03 AM
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Dan,
Go ahead and post a new thread about your hammer, especially in action. I've kinda kept quiet on the power hammer as mine is still in pcs. There are few other guys with a whole lot more expertise on the hammer, they are rather busy, but they will post when they get time.
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:00 PM
edthomas edthomas is offline
 
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Default door skin hitting patterns

I saw a video of someone with a lot of hammer experience shape bigger flat pannels it has helped me i'll try to explain. I use pretty flat bottom die 38-40 inch radius, it takes more power-hit force the contact aria is about 3/4 maybe more diameter. Mark a reference center line across pannel, balance pannel on lower die with line running right to left, he would slide the pannel left or right toward a the edge and this is where hammering would start. Hold on outside courners moving side to side and pulling toward you every pass stoping when at edge, turn 180 do again on other half. Hammering progressivly harder-slower moving in center arias of part or lighter-faster moving on outer arias. I use oil deluted with mineral sperits on both sides of skin, shows hit locations, increases power, and moves nice. Rewipe before every time to show next set of hit spots or to circle a low aria to raise. This takes practice if skin floats up off bottom die bad things start to happen, takes just right touch. A light reflection helps you see hit spots and low's. I over shaped my first wheeled door skin in about 5 min and destroyed my first hammered one in about 20 secounds. Everyone has a differient type of power hammer or a different stroke, spring pressure die travel combination. We need to match up the power to the die radius used. This is hard to try to explain and still have so mutch to learn but this has helped me hope it helps you.
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2012, 10:08 AM
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Friday after getting back from the spine injection doc no shots just cousultation first of 3 injections on the April 3rd. I finished mounting Kirmet to the wall it wanted to walk a little just enough to be anoying. I had moved it to a more user friendly spot closer to the pullmax then where it had been sitting the last 7 months with out power now just flip the switch & go to work. A major reason for getting it moved & running was hoping to creat less strain on my back, shoulders & arms. Not having to use the shot bag, mallet & stump as much to help slow down the deteroation of this old body. Trying to do this work in pain takes the fun out of it.
Here is Kermit mounted to the wall nothing fancy simple but effective & every thing around it is on castors if it needs to be moved for larger panel work.
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I then did a little playing I did not have the camera in the shop so, I did not take any progress pictures. The steel is 18 gage Ak DQ as that is what I had that was a scrap. First I shrunk the edges in the pullmax coming in about 2 1/2 inches. Stack shrinking in 3 layers then I started working it out on the power hammer. I used both 3 in & 4 inch radius lower dies 2 inch diameter on the curved area & up over the crown also the flat some on the top section. After I got it pretty smooth I ran over it with the electric da & 80 grit to high light the lows worked it a little more then re da it this is the final product it is quite smooth at present & with a couple of heavy coats of epoxy prime I would say it would be almost paintable in any dark color.
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Time wise I did not keep track but I know it was less strain on the old body & faster then working with the Hammer, stump, shot bag & wheel. I need to make wheel well tubs for my hand formed 36 roadster body this will definatley make it easer on the old body & actualy get it done more to come.
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  #39  
Old 03-24-2012, 11:21 AM
Richard K Richard K is online now
 
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Dan, the Hammer Man

Looks likes you've figured it out. Nice job!

A larger radius die might help to lessen the hammer marks, but they are nice and in a consistent pattern. Just like washing out with the wheel; more passes will even out the part. Slow the hammer down to avoid over shaping.
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  #40  
Old 03-24-2012, 11:48 AM
Carbuilder Carbuilder is offline
 
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Richard my friend I think we build a great little machine. I am Very happy the way it works now. I will be building more dies in the future, different radius & 2 1/2 & 3 in diameter plus maybe some liner stretching. I have the pullmax for shrinking & they are dialed in pretty well with not to much marking maybe a little more adjusting later but they are very good now. Hope some day you can make another trip out here.
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