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| Custom sheetmetal work for motorcycles Custom sheetmetal fuel tanks , fenders, guards, and oil tanks for custom and stock motorcycles. |
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#1
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Sunday I made a foam buck and I couldnt understand why it wasnt as easy as some of you described here to shape it. Then I seen on a biker build off the blue foam that you guys were talking about. I had the pink stuff and it breaks like a styrofoam cup. Anyway I decided tonight to make a wooden buck. Its not perfect in no way but I hope it will help me with this first tank. I made a flexible shape pattern and I think I missed the two supports in the middle of the buck because now I seem to have too much metal to bend over the one side. Anyway please offer suggestions and help, as I'll need a ton. I am waiting to get a shrinker in. I had started another panel for the foam buck on sunday and used an anvil to try and form the sides, it came out ok but I had really no gradual slope from the side of the tank to the top, it was just flat.
I dont know if I should cut out a new flexible pattern or if I can still make this one work? |
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#2
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Hi Jason,
What are you calling a flexible pattern? I think we are having a problem with terminology http://people.delphiforums.com/snotz...erpatterns.htm You don't have enough buck built to give you enough information to form your tank. You do have a good start though. To get more curvature to the sides of your tank you will have to stretch the middle of the sides as well as shrink the top and bottom of the sides. You can stretch by hammering with a mallet that has been rounded a bit. Place the side on a beater bag or even a cloth bag with sand in it. Heck, anything that will give a little like a thick piece of rubber will work. You can planish (smooth) the rough hammered panel with a slapper or hammer and dolly. You might want to try some tuck shrinks while you are waiting for your shrinker. I should add that I think you are going to have to shrink further in to the panel than your shrinkers will reach, so learning to tuck shrink is going to benefit you with this project. Here is a picture of a tank side that was stretched, tuck shrunk, and the hand tools (except the e-wheel that was used to planish) that I did for practice at MM03. Also, in the picture is a flexible pattern on the top of the pattern tank. Jim Russell |
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#3
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Jason, Jim is right. You need at least a couple more stations on each side and some horizontal ones on the front and rear. If you take a large hole saw to your stations before you put them together, you can create a way to clamp your metal, as well as reach in to check fit.
Building a tucking fork is fairly easy, some folks have even used needle nose pliers. The pliers leave creases though that create extra work. Check out the gallery and forums and you will find a vast amount of info on tuck shrinking. Tuck shrinking can do things that a shrinker can't, and it should be a priority to learn...... At least you're out there man! Goood Sign! Keep it up.........john
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The number of times you have to kick your bike is in direct proportion to the number of people watching......... |
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#4
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Jim, my interpretation of the flexible pattern was a piece of cardboard that was traced from the buck. I'm at work right now and when I try to click on the link you left it blocks me, so as soon as I get home I'll read it. I think what I am going to do tonight is to take the buck apart and redo it, especially the bottom and sides and add a new front section of supports. What am I supposed to do with the horizontal supports of the buck where it meets the shape of the tank? Sand them down to make them even right?
I also need to make a tucking tool and then figure out how to use it properly. John, thanks for the info. When i rebuild the baseplate I will add those holes in there for the clamps, great tip. I'm sure I will be asking for help on the tucking. Thanks for all the help so far guys. I appreciate it. |
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#5
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Hi Jason,
Take a look at these forums http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609 http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=540 Follow the second one and I think a lot of your questions will be answered with the posts and the pictures If these posts don't help or raise new questions, ask away Jim |
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#6
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Jim, thanks those topics helped a lot. I had to clean the shop last night as it was a disaster to work in there. So tonight I will make a more accurate buck with more stations. I'll post the pictures as soon as I finish it start shaping the metal. Thanks for all the helpful advice. This place is great, I dont know anywhere or any skill you can learn with this type of support, you guys are really some good people.
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#7
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I reworked the buck and make some modifications. I also got my lancaster shrinker/stretcher in tonight and I think I stretched too much. The first two stations of the buck are lining up ok, but how do I get the front part of the tank to follow the buck? I have the same issue in the rear. Maybe if I use the clamps it will help, though I thought the tank should be pretty close without them no? The other question is how do I make the tank transition seamlessly and get rid of the line where I shrunk it? I was thinking a slap hammer and dolly or just a regular metal hammer over the dolley? I know I have a lot of questions but as you can see I need lots of help... Thanks for any suggestions.
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#8
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Hi Jason,
Your buck stations are not flowing properly, they have square edges. You need to knock down the edges of the stations so that the surface flows correct. Previously, I had figured his weekend would be too busy for you to make a visit to my shop, but I changed my mind. Randy Ferguson is here helping out and we're getting things accomplished so if you want to visit either Saturday or Sunday that will be fine. Give me a call for directions. Bring your buck and your tools and we'll get you on the right track in a few minutes. 508-347 7749 Wray
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Wray click here to visit My New Ebay Store Shrinking Discs,BeaterBags,DVD Comprehensive sheetmetal shaping classes, offered one weekend every month. Please e-mail me direct for more information. wesparts@charter.net |
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