Tucking forks

[BLRussell]

I'm in the unfortunate position of trying to learn to metal shape with 18ga since that is what's the rust rot connects to. Tried 3 times to make a tucking fork that won't twist out of shape when I try to make a tuck. I am constantly frustrated with the aviation snips requiring more energy than I can maintain. (Maybe just a wimp,and both wrist's have been broken :cry:) Any information you can provide re: the proper use of snips will be much appreciated. Videos work best for me! Thanks for any help.

[Rick (madera)]

I'm in the unfortunate position of trying to lean to metal shape with 18ga since that is what's the rust rot connects to. Tried 3 times to make a tucking fork that won't twist out of shape when I try to make a tuck. I am constantly frustrated with the aviation snips requiring more energy than I can maintain. (Maybe just a wimp,and both wrist's have been broken :cry:) Any information you can provide re: the proper use of snips will be much appreciated. Videos work best for me! Thanks for any help.

the tucking forks need to be harden steel. the best thing to use are some pry bars from HF cheap and hard
Good Luck!

[BLRussell]

the tucking forks need to be harden steel. the best thing to use are some pry bars from HF cheap and hard
Good Luck!

Rick, that's what I used. I think I may have compromised the temper when welding (MIG). They twist relative to each other. Maybe too long (about 3").
Maybe incorrect technique? I did make one fork that is a solid rod bifurcated (can't come up with a less accurate word) at the top with a cutting disk, then trimmed to look more like a conventional tool. Works, but not much depth.

[Peter Tommasini]

HI Byron
have a look at my webb site may be you can copy the fork I use it does the job nicely or alternatively I can sell you one
Peter

[Bill Gibson]

Here's a video I did a while back with Captain Kirks Permission. It explains what is happening to the metal when you shrink it and how to get the most out of a shrink. For those with blacksmithing backgrounds, the process if shrinking is like what a blacksmith would call upsetting. Also a Wheelwright would use the same process for tire shrinking.
The fixture that I show was inspired by the one that Capt Kirk made and was using as a teaching tool. I find that it works great and I use mine a lot and after I made this video I modified a hammer to work like his as well.
The tuck forks are mild steel and were turned on my lathe they are welded between two peices of 1/4 inch plate and you will notice that the space between them is the same all the way up.
The reason for using the Hammer that I used was to be able to break down the process so I could explain each step and what was happening to the metal in a step by step explanation. The Kirk Hammer combines those steps into one action. He's quite clever, our King.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJFNFpmJEyw

[3 Chiefs]

I bought this tucking tool from Dagger tools back in November. You can put the tucks in with the tool in your hand and for smaller panels we just mount the forks in a vise and twist the metal. The forks on these are tighter than most forks I have used which seems to help place the tucks tighter. I really like this tool.

10945

[anders nørgaard]

Stubai also sell those "seaming pliers" Paul

http://www.stubai.com/seiten_englisch/frame-main-speng-03-eng.htm

Item Nr. 2784 STUBAI SEAMING PLIERS

They are roofers tools. That might explain why they are tighter ;)

[Joefish]

I built mine after reading a post written by a member known as "Rookie" I liked his signature line " It's not the size of your garauge its how you use it"

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4962

[kit]

Why not aproach it a different way and press the tuck in, there are many ways of doing that starting with the most basic a male die with one central short length of rod welded at an angle, and a female with two, one either side of the male, use them with a hammer or in a press or vise.