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View Full Version : Input on a Drill/Mill Machine


Fabricator
03-26-2004, 11:59 AM
I have an opportunity to get a Mill/Drill machine fairly cheap. I know that these mills/drill machines are for small jobs and hobby use. Which is what I am using it for. I am fairly new at metal fabrication. I want to use this to learn on and for $100.00-$150.00 (what I can get it for) for one of these I figure you can't go wrong. So which one do you guys recommend of the two?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44991
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42976

Any advise? input? would be appreciated. Also anyone got pics of projects they have done on their Mill/Drill?
Thanks

Gene_Olson
03-26-2004, 12:20 PM
I like the idea of R8 collets in the first one. They have a positive clamping action, you bolt the tool in place. Also, if it has the guts to give you power at those low speeds, that can be handy.
Table seems kinda small, and the frame looks wimpy, but for $150, I would consider one if I had room to put it.

I had one of the second ones long ago. (the twelve speed) Morris taper. I got rid of it. Morris taper is friction fit. When subjected to vibration, which happens, it can let go and the tool can go spinning across your workpiece and bench doing nasty things to either, both, or maybe you. (does that sound like experience???)



G.

Hemirambler
03-26-2004, 02:40 PM
Hi Fabricator!

Normally I would do my very best to steer you away from ANY mill/drill however for the price you could do some good work on one and learn a bunch until you step up to a "real" mill.

AS for picking between the two of those - It's hands down with the nod going to the R8 spindle. The other one (with the 12 speeds and morse taper) is gonna spit out that chuck as the Morse taper was NOT designed for side loads that you'll see when milling. If you wanted to simply use it for drill only and locate holes using the X-Y table then it'd be fine. But IF you really want to mill with it then DEFINITELY step up to the R8 taper.

Just another point to ponder....I paid 99 bucks for a near mint Electro Mechano (made in the good old USA) 21" drill press - variable speed (w/back gear) and it's a SUPER sturdy machine - it DID need some minor work to make it "perfect" - I rebuilt the VS pulley and made a replacement handle for the quill and replaced the return spring - and oh yeah the most important - I rewired it to 220V three phase. The fact that this was FACTORY LABELED as 440V 3phase ONLY probably was the biggest factor to help me get it so cheap. I constantly see the 3 phase stuff time and time again go cheap - especially drill presses - at the price I paid I figured I could change the motor - in the end I didn't have to as it was a standard 9 lead motor (dual voltage type). LONG WINDED POINT being that once you get over the "3 Phase" hurdle you get a WHOLE NEW WORLD of machines open to you and a lot of them are CHEAP!!!! Even Half worn out - most of them will "blow the doors off" this hobby stuff!

Bottom line - if you're talking 150 for the R8 then - hey what the heck - but if not then I'd suggest that you graciously pass and keep looking.

Your mileage may vary!



Jacin in Ohio

SOMB

Boogiemanz1
03-26-2004, 03:49 PM
Also in favor of the R8, any R8 tools you buy will be cheaper, and will work on 80% of the other mills......just don't get your hopes up for what it will do, and it won't be a speed demon on anything......jb