View Full Version : Metalworking C-press, gocart slick mt, tipping, bead roller

09-24-2011, 12:55 PM
Load calculated for 50 tons in middle between risers.. Less on ends, to make "stiff for ewheeling" put a jack load on center.. ends will not flex.

Constructed of 3/4" x 5" flatbar, drilled 3/4" holes in flatbar after cutting 72" long, tack welded all four together and drilled at once so all would match.
12" Channel cut 60" long, turned LIP inward, inside edges 2 1/2" apart.. Laid out on floor, squared and welded up to top channels with center gap 35" wide between verticals, cut spacers for press-bed.. WElded up on welding table. Stood press frame up with chainfall, put spacers in, welded end plates on. E-wheel adjustor added about a inch and half to 15" reach.. so the rolling end has a possible throat depth of 16 1/2".. and stout..

Put temporary bed pins in, laid bed onto them.
Welded 2x2 trailer sockets into ends of bed vertical for tool mounts.
Drilled end plate top channels for e-wheel adjustor, torch cut other end plate and installed 2x2 socket for Air brake pod (air power for tools) Mounted brake pod on plate, welded to 2x2 square tube x .25 wall.

Today, fabricated a riser for the e-wheel and gocart cradle.
Used two pieces of 1x2" channel, drilled with holes every 1" apart. tig welded together, belt sanded back smooth, slides in from bottom of channel bed. Cradle then bolts on top with a flat plate w 1/2" nut tig welded onto it on underside to tighten cradle onto..
Go-cart wheeled the curves in this today.. a 23t toy..

THIS will work for a english wheel and be more handy around the shop than anything else you can build.. everything from pressing out flywheels on harleys to breaking beads on tires.. gocart rolling, pressing.. and the tool mounts.. you can pull the bed out one end.. mount a plate on 2x2.. and bash away on a sandbag at different heights.. I ended up mounting my tube bender on one end.. Not sure yet if it is going to stay there tho. My port-a-power goes there in the middle on that 1" plate. I have pressed in new races and old ones out. I had a 1" hole punch rigged up in it for a while using a greenlee knockout cutter..

Plans are for diesel truck brake pod to operate a shrinker-stretcher.. but.. I am very leery of doing that to my Lowbuck one.. the Lancaster style gripper teeth with too much pressure don't last long. I may have a "tuck" and crush press made up in the next week or so..

This is the most handy tool I have every built. I just got around to painting it today, I was not sure what else I was going to weld onto it.. this is rustoleum Hammertone.. I can grind it off, and repaint to match by buying more cans..

Roller frame underneath is mounted with a plate, I put the greenlee hydraulic powerpack on it to operate the press and tubing bender. Rollers are all full swivel lockable type to stop it from rolling around while being aggressive with it. I put a accessory box onto it to store tooling, and it is full already. It need it's own roll around cart for just the things I use on it now.

RE; why lips on channel frame turn inward? you have a full trolley from one end of the bed to the other to press out anything, or just carry the overhead back plate to the floating ends of bed to get it out of the way. That came from a post here where the guy built a beautiful stainless C-press.
This one might not be as pretty, but I bet he has not used it as much as I have this one so far.

09-24-2011, 02:20 PM
That setup should move some metal!

09-25-2011, 11:17 AM
I really like the multi function design and the tube bender attachment.

I wonder how the torsional stability will be with the flat bars when wheeling?

Normally flat bar in that configuration isn't very strong?

When wheeling with the go-cart wheel it would be great because the wheels don't want to roll off the high part of the crowns, but when you switch to solid rollers I would think that they would want to roll torsionally off the highs.

You could bolt the flat bars through the holes and that would help them a bit but without any ribbing at a 90 degree to the flat bars it "might" flex some.

Most designs are more concerned with the throat opening under high loads and not with the torsional stability. Truth is that the torsional stability is really important to keep the wheel from changing pressure as they roll over each other.

Just a thought

09-25-2011, 11:34 AM
if you changed the flatbar ''legs'' to U-chanel the E-wheel ''frame'' wil be stronger

09-25-2011, 12:29 PM
What thickness will the greenlee cutters ponch witu your press?

09-25-2011, 12:34 PM
Friends.. you can re engineer the queen Mary, she'll still be a passenger ship.. This is a multi-use press. Not perfect at everything, but she will float and go around the world. I'm not sure this press is not better than most the homebuilt ewheel frames out there.

Put stress-torsion on the flatbar legs and she goes stiff like a bridge under load, when she stiffens up one way, she stiffens up the other. I've been out there on the "end of the C" pressing out races on a set of sportster cases not real long ago.. she popped and them races jumped out. I was thinking.. god if something just "twisted and moved and came out of alignment these cases are busted". It did just fine. I jacked about 20 tons into the center section.

I remember YOU, CK.. having a ewheel with tension adjustments too.. just not 20 tons?? Ha.. well.. (you are a card that I wish was my neighbor)

Rock on.. The overhead helve, this press works here. Now to get off my butt and complete that Rolling-tucker and give it to ya too.. now.. just wait on that.. Throw them thumbnails dies away.

(Glad to see ya CK.)

09-25-2011, 12:39 PM

I used them on 14ga.. they are the greenlee slug splitter style with two cutter blades. The center-donut falls out in two pieces. The rig I had, I used a bolt to center them, just pressed them out.

I have a set of cleveland die and tool dies for my scotchman ironworker there.. I've used them now in the rousselle C press. that one I made the pretty stainless roses for my wife with.. THE problem is in the extraction, it "twists" the metal and snaps the punch.. you have to rig a deal or clamp it tightly to the table. It has a guided V-way in it.. dead right on.. no twisting..

I'll probably make a couple of guides for this one.. later.. I got that big H-beam press in the other room with 5hp.. the guides on it are like 1 1/2".. roller ball.. Those rascals are expensive..


04-16-2012, 06:53 PM
Photos are missing.. have to go on a easter egg hunt to find them to repost.


Added a screw type press to the frame. That's a 1 1/2" threaded rod with nut welded to a pipe, slip fits in between rails, a 1" bushing in end to fit 1" solid pusher rod to press in bushings and other things, still need to add springs to retract.


Gocart slick in use.


Note the tail light holes cut in channel while it was a dump truck bumper for a year or two??? Not filled them yet, trying to find a neat use for them.

2x2 sockets mount for hole punch.

(never know when you might have to tow a trailer with your press??)

At least it has "air brakes" to stop ??? also on a 2x2 socket for removal or moving in and out.

Universal welding positioner currently mounted on the press frame, will mount on truck, or table or? 82:1 gear motor tied to auction bought lathe chuck-sprocket on a big bearing from a sewage plant tear-out. Works great to tig weld driveshafts after cutting to fit.. (or.. you pro guys don't do your own mechanical work & fabrication??)

I LOVE THE PRESS, it is the most used tool in the shop, I used it to break down some tires off the rims with the home-made strap bender handle today..

04-17-2012, 12:17 AM
LOL ! I didnt realise the Queen Mary had air brakes ? Well i suppose we Scots are inventive.
I think your multi-use of one frame is a great idea and i may try and incorporate some of your thinking.
Well done !

Mike Young (Scotsman)