Lubricating gas valves?

[Flummo]

Wasn't sure where to put this thread, but since it is about gas welders it ends up here. Please move it if there is a better place.

The valves on my (~25 year old) Dillon torch are a bit too hard to turn, and sticky when you open them even if you have opened and "almost closed" them to avoid sticking. Makes it a bit hard to adjust them, and accidently opening too much so the flame blows out happens a bit too often.

I thought about lubricating them a bit, but since pure oxygen and common oils and greases shouldn't be combined I'm not sure what to use. Any suggestions?

[anders nørgaard]

Ulf,
I haven't got the time to give you an explaining answer right now, so the short version:

DON'T EVER LUBE THEM! IT'S DANGEROUS!!!!

[greenbaja]

i second that ...NEVER put ANY grease or lube on the threads or packing nuts of a torch ... petroleum products and high oxygen atmospheres are NOT a good combo ...

[dmc1]

I don't know what the valves on the Dillon are like, but if there are nuts compressing the packing, try loosening them a bit. Check for leaks afterwards.

Dave Cameron

[Flummo]

I know petroleum products and oxygen is a dangerous and explosive mix, so that's not an option. However, on some instructions for oxygen regulators or something like that I have read a warning saying just that ordinary oil/grease should not be used, and only special lubricant should be used.

My conclusion from that warning is that there are special lubricants compatible with oxygen available... but I may be wrong.

[weldtoride]

Wasn't sure where to put this thread, but since it is about gas welders it ends up here. Please move it if there is a better place.

The valves on my (~25 year old) Dillon torch are a bit too hard to turn, and sticky when you open them even if you have opened and "almost closed" them to avoid sticking. Makes it a bit hard to adjust them, and accidently opening too much so the flame blows out happens a bit too often.

I thought about lubricating them a bit, but since pure oxygen and common oils and greases shouldn't be combined I'm not sure what to use. Any suggestions?

Is yours branded Dillon or Henrob? If it is Henrob, it might be time to test out their lifetime warranty:

http://www.cobratorches.com/17.html

If you do test their warranty, please share your results with us.

My guess is that it is an issue with the valve stem packing that is causing your problem.

I have an older Henrob/Dillon as well, but mine doesn't exhibit this problem yet. My parts list shows the valve and packing nut as an assembly, so new torch valves would be in order. I assume that is the only way to get new packing, but I would call a dealer to be sure, and also to ask about the warranty process.

There are some new "in-between" tip sizes that have come out since your and my torches were produced. I got them at a show, and they are nice, so if you have to order parts, you might consider those as well.

Any lubricants on oxygen fittings are "dancing with disaster", I would not go there.

[Flummo]

It is a Dillon Mk. III. I have no actual facts on how old it is but in the manual there is a note of "new low pressure regulators that will be available from Switzerland January 1985" (I think), and opposite the valves on the handle it has "9 85" stamped, I'm guessing it's the manufacturing month and year. Here in Sweden, they are still sold under the brand Dillon, so the name doesn't give any clues about the age.
The Henrob warranty only applies for the original purchaser anyway, back in 1985 I was 3 years old so I doubt I could fool anyone I've had it since new. :grin: Bought it just a year ago.

I did remove the acetylene valve a while back out of curiosity, everything looked good except the carbon deposits. Seems someone has had interesting experiences with acetylene burning where it shouldn't burn... (At least that proves that I didn't waste money when I bought checkvalves before I started welding, nowdays they are required by law here.)
I cleaned out as much carbon as I could, though it's impossible to get it all out of the threads. It got better, but not quite as good as I'd like it. On the other hand, the sticky valves are just a bit annoying, so not worth buying new valves - not yet anyway.

[ShawnMarsh]

Another option is to not use the valves on the torch, and simply leave them open, opting to use the valves on the regulators instead. I had never thought of that as an option until I heard Kent White talk about doing it that way. Then I noticed on http://www.cutlikeplasma.com that Jim Spradley says that is the proper way to set up the Dillon/Henrob.

[ESjaavik]

Another option is to not use the valves on the torch, and simply leave them open, opting to use the valves on the regulators instead.

That's what I did for 40 years. Using the valves never worked good for me. I try it if it's awkward to get back to the regulators, but it always turns out I have to in order to get a steady flame.

[Henrob Jim]

Hello guys, Sorry I have not been on here following this, Terry Thorne let me know about this thread.

Any how there is a "Special" grease for the threads I can send you some or you can send the torch back to the US for repairs, sounds like it needs cleaning from the previous owner not using the check valves too.

The date on back is the manufacture date.

The grease is expensive, like $140 USD for 10 oz.

I would send you enough to lube your torch for the cost of shipping.

You can clean out the carbon with some chemicals but the valve for cutting may be damaged by some and the mixing camber may become partially clogged, if you do not do it properly, again sending it back to cobra may be a good idea, it will cost you quite a bit in shipping.

If you are meticulous and clean it properly it should be fine, just try to keep the chemicals out of the cutting button and do not disassemble the mixing chamber beyond removing the "shank" the part the tip screws on,

Spray carburetor cleaner followed by denatured alcohol then blow out with compressed air should be good.

sometimes the grease gets pushed to one end of the threads or the other and you can scrape it back to the threads, just remove the knobs and see if any is left.

[oldgoaly]

Glad you gave the definitive answer Jim, or I'd had to get your "stunt double"....:eek: I knew there was a lubricant and there was a procedure for cleaning the valves. Art was showing someone at a swapmeet, so it was one of those listen you will learn. Problem is that it was 20-30 years ago :confused:
tt;)

[Flummo]

Thanks for the replies! Winter is here now and there will probably not be any welding done for the next 5 or 6 months, so I have plenty of time to clean it out carefully and see how that works. If I'm not happy with it you may hear from me again next spring! :cool: