Making a 5/8" collett for a Pullmax P13

[oldgoaly]

Let's start off by saying like many things in this craft you can get hurt or killed by not using common sense. Some of the tools and techniques may not be the safest way, but I've been doing them carefully and I am still in one piece!
Why the need for a 5/8" collet, well... The P13 uses 16mm tooling so did the T3, but the T3 has been modified to set screws, the original collett and nut are long gone. 5/8" cold rolled is common and reasonably priced here in the states. 5/8" cold rolled measures out .624-.625, 16mm measure out .630. Now how I found out I need to make new colletts is when I put 5/8" shrink dies in the 16mm P13, the upper die kept falling out after just a few minutes of hammering. Pic 1 cutting the slugs off the bar stock in a vintage Keller power hacksaw.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4718
Pic 2 Cutting a few extras a pair for the T3, maybe trading material down the road?

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4719

Pic 3, deburring the slug using a expander wheel with 80 grit sand paper on a old Dunlap (Sears and Roebuck) motor.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4720

Pic 4 the lathe work, on an 60's vintage Sears Atlas/Craftsman's 12" lathe. Please note the hy-tech coolant set-up, yep the spray bottle...

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4721

Pic 5 is the facing off of both ends, they are cut a hair long, a few passes and they are ready to go.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4722

Pic 6 is of the boring of the center hole for the broach, a pilot or starter hole was drilled 1st. This happens to be 21/32nd drill bit as the broaching requires.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4723

Pic 7 a look at we have done so far a little clean up

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4724

more to come

[oldgoaly]

Part 2
Pic 8 is a look at the tapering set up using the carriage compound, setting it isn't to hard, put pullmax collett in expanding arbor adjust til tool slides along colletts tapered side.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4725

Pic 9 another look at the taper set up, these expanding arbors are nice for working on bead roller dies ar ewheel lower anvils.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4726

Pic 10 A look after the taper has been cut.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4727

Pic 11 Oh ya there is another way if you taper attachment was attached...

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4728

Pic 12 Beginning of the broaching process, remamber what I said about using common sense! I am watching this very closely, using as little power as I can.
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4729

Pic 13 is another of the broach, it is sharp and I use a cutting oil on it.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4730

Pic 14 Slowly getting there, I have the release valve just barely closed and pump slowly and gently, trying not to break or damage the broach. The table get reset 3 times with this size broach, it's about 16" long.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4731

Pic 15 Square hole just like we want!

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4732


Pic 16 another look at the holding jig, yep it's simple fits very well and it holds the collett for cutting.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4733

Pic 17 Cutting the slots with a angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. It's fast, they only need to be 1/2 down to allow for a good grip. This is a little hard for me to hold the angle grinder and cut straight.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=4734

I hope you enjoyed the post and maybe learned something too. This is just one way of making a collett. 16mm will not fit these colletts to do that one would need a 16mm broach. Got one pair done, P13 has them, the 16mm colletts are in a padded pill jar waiting for that rare chance I need to nibble with the P13. Take care! tt

[kfs]

Thank you for showing us how you mad the collets !!

I have newer seen a squeare hole broatch before, now i andestan what you ment when you say it's fragile :D

[oldgoaly]

Karl,
I would not say fragile but it could break if you dropped it and it hit the wrong way. They are almost 300$ new I would hate to break it. I did a little checking on 3/4" broach and a 19mm collett they are much closer than 5/8-16mm. When I get closer to having the P5 head on the C frame going I may make a few colletts then. I'm no machinist I have some friends that are so I have picked a few good pointers along the way. :lol: even gave them a pointer I don't remember what they were doing but they were having troubles, with all the years of experience. I watch what they were doing, had to say it might work better if you reverse the lathe:lol: OH they were gonna torch me but oooops they had the lathe in reverse. It helps to know what direction you going even though you don't know where you are going....;)tt