sheet metal animals

[weldit]

I have learned alot about sheet metal shaping on this website and from experimenting on my own. Here are some of my projects that I thought I would share.
They are .040 steel with heat blued finish with clear coat. The bases are 16 ga. formed on my stump and plannishing hammer. The first one is a trout lamp. Second one is a bass lamp and third is a deer scull.

[Mark W]

Cool! Nice work. What kind of clear coat are you using? What sort of fuel are you using to get your colors?

[Hotrod1932]

Really NICE work ( insert name here ) ;) And WELCOME TO METALMEET :D

Those are really nice pieces thanks for posting them!!!

Can you tell us ( certainly meaning me and I am sure others ) more about how you did the horns on the deer skull???

[weldit]

Thanks for the coments. I used an oxy acetelene torch for most of the colors but for the stripes on the bass I used the TIG set at 14 amps. It took some practice to get the speed right. I used Rustoleum Crystal Cleer enamel but it hides some of the colors so next I will try an automotive clear coat. Some of the red colors don't show up after I clear and it kind of makes everything darker. I also tried clear laquer and had the same result. Do you guys have any ideas for a better clear?

The horns are made from tubing and round bar ground to a taper, Lots of belt sanding.

[oldgoaly]

Wow! lots of work! turned out real nice! Thanks for sharing! tt;)

[Mark W]

Wow, using the TIG for color! Great idea, I'll have to try that one.
I haven't found a superb clear, but I use Nyalic and Permalac and they both hold up better than Crystal Clear. You still lose some color with them, but I've found that you can keep a lot better colors using Oxy -propane. More blues anyway. I use oxy acetylene for darker greenish-blue colors. I've also found different results by coloring the back of the piece - something about the direct contact of that actylene seems temporary when using a laquer.

The horns are made from tubing and round bar ground to a taper, Lots of belt sanding.

[Metalman Sweden]

Very nice work you done!
Im always impressed by people who can realize the idea´s :D

Look forward to see more!
// Per

[weldit]

[QUOTE=Mark W;83742]Wow, using the TIG for color! Great idea, I'll have to try that one.
I haven't found a superb clear, but I use Nyalic and Permalac and they both hold up better than Crystal Clear. You still lose some color with them, but I've found that you can keep a lot better colors using Oxy -propane. More blues anyway. I use oxy acetylene for darker greenish-blue colors. I've also found different results by coloring the back of the piece - something about the direct contact of that actylene seems temporary when using a laquer.


Thanks for the tip on the clear, are those automotive clears? I have tried coloring some on the backside and it does bring out different colors, I have never tried oxy propane though. I tried the tig becuase I needed crisp lines for the stripes. I found that 14 amps is pretty good but you have to play with the speed, kinda slow but not too slow.

[Overkill]

There is a POR 15 product called Glissen that I intend to give a try on my aluminum teardrop trailer. It's not supposed to yellow.

[Mark W]

Yeah, I've been using an oxy acetylene jewelers' torch for the fine stuff, but am anxious to try the tig.
Nyalic is an all use spray that was actually developed for the Apollo Space Program. It is priced like it was developed for the Apollo Space Program. Nyalic was once distributed by NAPA, but I've found few dealers on the West Coast and just get it from www.nyalic.com

Permalac is used for sculpture and is available in a couple places, but I get it from Sculpt Noveau. They also have a metal wax (ferric or nonferric) that you can put on after the Permalac that has additional UV protection and corrosion inhibitors. They also have a new 2 part clear that is supposed to be good. Got some, haven't tried it.

I got that clear from Eastwood and it applies OK, but I haven't really put it to the corrosion test. I've heard of the POR-15 and heard good stuff about it, but every person I've run into that sells a two part clear says it doesn't yellow and everyone I run into using a two part clear says they yellow.

I've found that the edges and nooks and crannies of sheet metal sculpture do not hold up well at all to clear powder coating. I think the coat just pulls away from the sharp edges and corrosion starts quickly.