e-wheel adjuster

[jlrussell4]

Well, I finally got started on my e-wheel adjuster. I have been collecting pieces for a while, just need some time to get to it. I have some photos in my album under e-wheel.


I will attach a photo of the adjuster screw and quill assembled for a trial fit and photo :)

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3227/8adj_screw_assembly-med.JPG?4481

More pictures at http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3227&ppuser=8

So, how am I doing so far professor Pinkerton? :) :P

Jim

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Looking good Jim. On track for an "A" for sure. I can't tell if you have a spring pin in the collar. The set screw alone won't hold the weight.

I'm assuming you are going to weld a plate on the bottom to drill and tap for the yoke screw. I'd suggest more than 1/4" plate for this so you will have enough threads to hold the weight. Also make sure you tap it straight. I got one crooked once and had to scrap it.

What are you going to use for gibs?

We're going to do a lobuck wheel seminar soon. I've got it designed in my head. It will also have a hollow tube quill, probably 2x2x1/4 or so. The idea is to come up with a quality design that could be built with a minimum of tools and no machining. If someone has a way to cut and weld metal, drill, and tap, they will be able to build this machine. Target cost will be less than $600 including a hardened upper and 3 lowers from CNC solutions. If someone comes up with their own upper it could lower the costs considerably and

I hope to get started on the seminar soon. I'm putting most my effort into getting the ewheel business off the ground. My oldest son resigned his job as a District Manager with a video chain and is working with me. We're hoping to make a go of it.

[jlrussell4]

Hi Kerry,

I'm going to pin the collar later on when I get to final assembly. I am going to use a plastic gibb. I have some pieces of plastic stored away. I will have to measure them as they maybe too thick. If they are I will take your earlier tip and go to Wal Mart for a cutting board :idea: Yes, I am going to weld a plate on the bottom for the yoke to mount to. I'll make sure it's thick enough to hold the weight.
Speaking of yokes :) Is 3/8" plate thick enough for the yoke?

Good luck with your business. Retirement is for sissys anyways... right? :) :) :)

Jim

[Kerry Pinkerton]

I'd suggest at least 1/2 inch for the upper yoke. I'm using 3/4 on mine but I've used 1/2 before and it works fine.

I made a tool that helps with alignment on the upper cap. When you cut it out, make, drill and tap two. Put a piece of all thread through one, run a locknut down it, and sit it on the bench with the rod sticking up. Sit the tube down over the rod and run the other cap down the threads until it's about snug. Line up both caps with the side of the machine and tack weld the top plate. I use some C clamps to square the caps with the tube. Remove the all thread and weld solid. This ensures the threaded rod is centered in the tube. If you don't get it centered your quill can bind unless your gibs are looser than you might want. You can take the word of experience on this. I learned this the hard way.

[Peter Miles]

Kerry,

I'd also like to extend my best wishes for the success of your new business!

Happy Wheel Making.......................

[roberlt]

What you make the upper and lower yokes from an a benchtop E-wheel?
I am thinking about making a bench wheel,8X3 upper wheel 4X2 lower wheel appx. 28 to 30 inch throat.
The yokes would be welded together and welded/bolted to the frame and adjuster.
Thanks in advance

Rob

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Rob, not sure if you are asking me or someone else but just because someone was not listening has never stopped me from talking :D :D

I make my upper yokes from 3/4 x 4 bar stock. They are welded. I made a jig to assure alignment then bore the holes to ensure fit.

My uppers bolt to the quill with a 1/2 or 5/8 bolt. They can rotate in any direction by simply loosening the bolt.

I'm still evolving my lower yoke. The one's I made for Tim Goodrich, Jay Hayes and Dutch are 1/2" wall tubing based and the bench wheel is 1/2" bar stock welded. I've also made some from 3 1/2" 1/4 wall tubing (that is the one on Wheelasarus). I use my 4 bolt adjusting scheme to allow adjustment side/side/front/back and the yoke is anchored by a 1/2" bolt to a hole tapped in the lower arm. It also rotates 360 degrees so people can wheel from the side, or front, or whatever.

When you say 4x2 anvils are you talking 4" tall or 4" wide. I'd suggest that 3x3 might be a better choice. 2" diam and 4" wide won't allow you enough radius when you consider the bearing size.

[roberlt]

Kerry,
Upper wheel (planned) 8" dia. by 3" wide
Lower wheel (planned) 4" dia by2" wide
As much as I would like to buy ready made wheels I will be using caster wheels. Cisco-eagle sells a 8X3 FORGED caster wheel with bearings for $60.57 and a cast iron 4X2 with bearings for $4.65. For $4.65 with bearings (plus shipping) it isn't worth turning this wheel on the lathe.
Thanks for the info.

Rob

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Hi Rob,

The forged steel 8x3 should work fine. You may need to take it somewhere with a lathe and true it up. If you get the one with the 3/4 axle, you can buy a stripper bolt for the axle. I've found out the hard way that a standard bolt is considerably undersize and allows noticible 'slop' in the fit between bearing and axle. I have been unable to find stripper bolts larger than 3/4".

You might have a problem with the cast iron caster for an anvil. Not with the diameter or width but with the thickness of the 'rim'. As you start removing metal for the profile, it looks like you will pretty quickly run out of metal at the sides.

Several years back before I had found this group and before I had built any metalshaping machines, I bought the build an english wheel book on Ebay. Promptly went out and got some casters for anvils. By putting on in a drill press and spinning it, I was able to put some crown in it. Never did use them for anything. It's around somewhere, it turns up every time I clean the shop (I never throw anything away it seems...)

Having said that, it will work. Metal will get stretched and shape will result. You can always upgrade later. CNC Solutions sell some nice 3" diam x2"w anvils and they sell them individually.

If that is your ultimate goal, be sure you build your frame/adjuster to work with a lesser diameter anvil. :shock:

Good luck and happy shaping!

[roberlt]

Kerry,
MSC and McMaster-Carr sell 1" shoulder screws (and metric) however MSC only sells full boxes and McMaster-carr sells individually.

I planned on taking the 8" wheel to work and truing up on the brake lathe (1" arbor)

My southbend 10K should handle the smaller wheels.

I considered the problem of rim thickness but for the price they want I figure I will get one and see if it works. If so, good. If not, back to the drawing board.

Do you thing 1/2 in would be strong enough for the yokes? I want to keet this as light as I can, and don't know if my welder will handle 3/4

Many thanks for ALL the info.

Rob

[Kerry Pinkerton]

1/2" will be fine. WheelASarus upper yoke is 1/2x4" plate, welded. Works fine. In fact the lower yoke is a piece of 3 1/2 1/4" wall tubing with the top cut off and machined for the axle. My previous wheel was made similar and I had no problem.

[roberlt]

Many thanks for all the information

Thanks again,

Rob

[John Jordan]

We're going to do a lobuck wheel seminar soon. I've got it designed in my head. It will also have a hollow tube quill, probably 2x2x1/4 or so. The idea is to come up with a quality design that could be built with a minimum of tools and no machining. If someone has a way to cut and weld metal, drill, and tap, they will be able to build this machine. Target cost will be less than $600 including a hardened upper and 3 lowers from CNC solutions. If someone comes up with their own upper it could lower the costs considerably and


Kerry,

I have been enjoying reading your posts the last 2-3 weeks. You have touched on a number of things that interest me, and generally been very informative. Thanks!

I would be an eager and willing participant in a such a seminar. I don't live too far from you. What would it take to get you going???

I'm looking forward to it.

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Hi John,

The seminar will be 'on-line' but you are always welcome to come by. I'm about an hour and a half from Nashville, about 10 miles south of the Tennessee line off I-65.

Glad you are enjoying the site. That's why it's here.

[roberlt]

Kerry,
PLEASE do the seminar. I have been sketching E-wheel designs and every tine I fix 1 problem I see 2 more plus the 1 my latest fix made!
I also plan (soon) to order the upper wheel and 1 lower wheel blank I mentioned earlier to see if they will work.
Did my info. on shoulder screws help any?

Rob

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Hi Rob,

Shoulder bolts are easy to find, STRIPPER bolts are something else. MSC says they cannot get anthing larger than 3/4" shoulder. The difference is that the stripper bolt has a precision diameter where the shoulder bolt doesn't. The result is a slight play in the fit between the bearings and bolt. The stripper bolt is a hand 'press' fit and is no play.

I'll have to make some 7/8" axles for the CNC solutions wheels I ordered with with 7/8 axles. Dutch and Jay got uppers with 3/4 axles and I supplied stripper bolts for axles. I'll probably make something from 7/8 drill rod.

[Hemirambler]

Hi Kerry, Your comment has got me a little confused as we always referred to them as the same thing so I got out a Holo-Krome book to see what's what. Here are some excerpts for a 1" Shoulder Screw:


32 micro, 32 Rc, Diameter .998-.996 - Holo-Krome Socket Head Shoulder Screw.

Quote from Holo-Krome's Technical Handbook, "Shoulder screws, commonly referred to as stripper bolts, are used in a variety of applications."

The only other thing I can think of is a "locator bolt" we have ocassionally used those and if I recall correctly they are also very accurate but have the threads at the same diameter as the shank.



Jacin in Ohio

[Kerry Pinkerton]

I was referring to a standard bolt with a shoulder. Just learned something from your post. The McMaster-Carr catalog doesn't show a 7/8 bolt though. Does your catalog show one? Where? I'd rather buy one than make one. But I only need 3 because I've decided to standardize on 3/4 for the upper wheel axles.

[roberlt]

Kerry,
If can't find a 7/8 why not get get a (or 3) 1" and turn it down?

Rob

[Hemirambler]

Hi Kerry,

Yeah I guess we were talking apples and oranges :oops:

here's what I thougth you meant when you said Shoulder Bolt

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3188/1801bolt_qc_-med.jpg?5944


I hope that works :shock:

After checking McMaster-Carr (online - www.mcmastercarr.com) I see that their prices get totally outrageous on the BIGGER shoudler bolts!!!! For those prices I'd think about going and get a hardened race and use a smaller bolt!!! Races are cheap!

Bolts are one of those items where most "regular" places see to wanna gouge the crap out of ya!!!! Your better off going to the industrial suppliers - places like " Fastenal " (www.fastenal.com) is just one of many around me. You could do a GOOGLE search and see where the ones closest to you might be. If you sweat talk them you might even get a sample or two or three :wink:


Kerry, I don't remember how you run your upper bearings and all. On mine I just run the roller bearings directly on the shoulder bolt - granted the hardness of the bolt is on the lower end of the reccomended range, but at the loads we run I would be surprised to ever cause a problem. If that ever does become a concern I will switch to the hardened races.


Jacin in Ohio