Whats everyone using

[gator 1]

When doing large projects such as car or truck bodies and sand blast or strip the bodies what are you using as a primer that has good weld thru and moisture protection. Several i have used in the past were only weld thru if you sanded off the primer first.

I am stretching and chopping a truck cab and there will be a lot of metal work involved so i want a good weld thru primer, If there really is such a thing.

I hope to start this at dutches july meet but the rain has taken a tool around here. The fire company i run with bought a brand new $40,000.00 air boat and on its first call in the swift water they sunk it. Found it 3 days layer on the bottom of the river, Going back to the manufacture in Florida to see what can be salvaged.

Several friends and family are having flood trouble so we will see what happens. Gator

[CCWKen]

I use urethane primer but mask joints that will be welded. There I just use a rattle can weld through primer. If the body will sit for a long time, I suggest using an epoxy primer. A good wire wheel will strip primer prior to welding.

[firstgenbird]

I am using epoxy primer PPG's DPLF. I think Randy doesn't like DPLF, so it might be good to find out what Randy uses now. I don't use etch primer, but I do etch the metal with PPG DX520 and DX579 metal prep products first to give the metal tooth.

Where panels will be welded the epoxy needs to be masked or stripped back off. Those seams that will be welded, start of as bare steel and get rattle can "Weld Thru" zinc primer by 3M. It's a lacquer based primer containing a lot of zinc. It's supposed to reflow with heat and protect the weld. Weld through primer is not a good foundation for epoxy primer or color coats, so whatever weld through that can be reached after the joint is complete, should be removed with a rag wet with lacquer thinner. Then more epoxy on those areas completes the job.

If you find a real primer that is weld through, let me know. I don't think there are any catalyst or two part products that don't cause welding issues. These steps are the best I've found asking around.

[Boogiemanz1]

Gator, maybe you should check with Barry Kives at Southern Urethane........john

[Iforgotmypassword]

Gator, What truck are you working on? I am in the process of extending my 67 GMC 26", with a 3 1/2" chop.

[firstgenbird]

The product information for 3M weldable primer is available at

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66S8QHCOrrrr Q-

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66SXeSc7rrrr Q-

[underdog57]

A product called rass o nill is supposed to be very good .
I think they call it Piclex also ...
have not used it yet , but its supposed to make welds stronger and kills rust ..
http://www.royresearch.com/rassonil/
good luck...
The rain is terrible , we get a lot here every year ...

Bob

[gator 1]

The truck is a 1951 ford coe. (cab over engine ). The plans are to stretch it 42 inches and maybe chop the top 2 1/2 inches. Also looking at stretching the doors 4 inches. When doing the 42 inch stretch we will be adding 2 doors to make this into a 4 door. I will keep a photo essay and document the steps along the way...Gator

[dauer]

Hi Larry (Firstgenbird),


You may want to check with you paint jobber as most manufacturers do not recommend using epoxy AND another etching product as most epoxy primers contain etching additives already and the use of any other etch prep or primer will actually hurt the adhesion of the epoxy primer....


Dave

[Jeff Parker]

Give Barry Kives a call @ Southern Polyurethanes Inc. (SPI) He's a metalmeet guy!

[rookie]

Hi Gator. I talked to Randy about Primers in the past, he used to use DP from PPG but started having problems with it adhering and has been using Southern Polyurethanes primer. I don't recall the part number though. Every time I have asked him about paint issues his info was dead on.


Phil

[hodijag]

I am using picklex 20.

It is supposed to enhance the quality of the welds, neutralise any (remaining) microscopic rust and passivate bare metal to keep it from rusting.
It is also said to be compatible with all other finishes
It comes as a watery substance in a spray bottle, so application is really easy, spray, let work for 2 minutes and wipe off the remaining picklex.

It seems to do all it says. I have had the car partially sand blasted for more than a year now with no new rust forming on the picklexed bare sections, and all the other rust seemingly stabilised.

Just to be safe, I plan to reblast lightly if ever I get the bodywork completely finished, immediately epoxy primer after that and finish from there, but during my very long term restoration process, until now the picklex solution seems to work for me.

Marc.

[LARRY KAEMPFER]

i find a problem with all weld thru primers with zink or not ?????????? ,,, they make my welds act funny and spatter,,, just like something is on the metal, because well something is on the metal !!!!!!!! "ya" hip??

[AndrewDMW]

Look into the Southern Polyurethanes Products. They are the best I have found. I would reccomend the epoxy and mak off the areas you know you will have to cut and weld on. The epoxy is a great product that will last you a long time and it is easy to touch up. Just try not to use it over metal that has been soda blasted.
I tried it and liked it so much I started selling it!!!
Not only are they great products, they are some of the nicest guys you will ever deal with!!!!!

First check out the Southern Polyurethanes web-site for what you need.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

You can buy through Baker PBE or there may be jobber located in your area.

Andrew D
Restoration Supply & Tool

[Cobra06]

Andrew, is there an on line or mail-order source for SP primer? my local guy doesn't carry it.
Thanks
David

[klandor]

try a company called rubber seal they have been around since 1955. I have been using their products since 1985 and have had no problems.they have just come out with a new weld- thru primer that is paint compatable,meaning you dont have to remove it prior to priming or basecoating. you should never basecoat over a 1k product anyway without fist putting a good primer over the weld-thru. their web site is www.rubber-seal.com they also carry a lot of other products at a reasonable cost and will stand behind them in writing.most weld-thrus are intended to be liberly sprayed on the weld area, let dry, then remove from the weld joint only, do your weld, finish it, then spray on a good epoxy or self-etch what ever you prefer.