View Full Version : different methods of appling pressure
todd8541
01-05-2004, 07:25 PM
I am just curious about something and was wondering what the experienced have to say about it.
I was thinking instead of using a screw system to apply pressure in the english wheel why not some sort of incompressible fluid system with a guage. The same type as a jack. If a guage is put into the system it would be alot easier and quicker to repeat reference your pressure for the wheels.
I know after a bit of time the feel of adjusting it the conventional way comes to be. I am thinking with a guage and hydraulically it would be easier to be more consistent and less guess work.
Todd
Kerry Pinkerton
01-05-2004, 07:34 PM
You can Todd, do a search on Hydraulic
or go to:
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=230&highlight=hydraulic
The search feature is really slick on this forum.
todd8541
01-05-2004, 08:54 PM
pinkerton
thanks
yeah i know about the search i just never slow down to use it haha. It would save some space on here if i did.
Why are some top wheels sometimes offset from the anvils.
Todd
goleafsgo_12
01-09-2004, 02:22 PM
I was thinking of this: You could use a hydrolic jack of some sort (a long stroke or short stroke whatever) I think short stroke would be better becuase you need more pumps to move it up and down. Anyways aside from that, I have a pipe ebnder and to fit the die in, there is a hole in the die where a shaft goes into it. This little shaft is basically the piston turned down on the end to fit the hole. Now you could have each wheel on a mount so that you can just slip it on the jack and fit the shaft into the hole. Pump to your desired height, the have 2 bolts from the casing that surrounds the piston bolt into the piston walls. Here is what im saying.
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/E2/41/28420834-fc58-01C2015A-.jpg
cowboy76
01-09-2004, 04:30 PM
Ya know, I had that idea about three months ago but wasn't really sure about how successful it might be, though after som serious thought I really don't see why it wouldn't?? :roll: :wink:
Jason Shiptoski
Kerry Pinkerton
01-09-2004, 04:53 PM
I see a couple possible issues with this.
1- Jacks don't handle side to side pressure well, the seals tend to leak.
2- The lock bolts keep you from easily making fine adjustments. After watching some real wheelmen work, I notice that they are frequently giving their adjuster 'lovetaps'.
I think you could build a mechanical adjuster easier than you could rig this up. imho.
cowboy76
01-09-2004, 04:54 PM
Good points..
Thanks
goleafsgo_12
01-09-2004, 07:33 PM
ya I guess you are right, now that I have had time to think on it. A screw system would be better. I saw jesse james work an e wheel the other day, he sits on a stool, works the screw adjuster with his feet and e wheels at the same time...****!
awolff
01-11-2004, 06:11 PM
I am just starting to build my E-Wheel, and plan to use two hydraulic cylinders, a large diameter short stroke under the lower anvil to adjust it and a smaller diameter longer stroke cylinder actuated by a screw mounted elsewhere. I am planning to use ACME thread for the screw since the mechanical advantage of going from one size piston to the other overcomes the "speed" of the ACME. I am going to document this project and post pictures when I get the chance. :?
Randy Ferguson
01-11-2004, 08:11 PM
Hi guys,
Here are some pictures of my hydraulic lower adjuster. I believe the materials were supplied by Wray Schelin and Tom Lipton provided the machine work. If I get anything wrong, I'm sure they will give correction. I can't thank these guys enough for all they've done for me!
The cylinder used is an Enerpac, not sure of the model, but it's in the 6-8" range. The ram is around 1.5" diameter. I'm guessing Tom milled the flat on the ram. This is to prevent rotational movement.
Installed around the ram is a bronze bushing to slide through which is slotted and fit inside a block of aluminum, which is also slotted to take up slack as the unit wears over then course of time. By simply tightening two bolts in the aluminum block, everything becomes very tight again. It's a really simple, but effective plan. Wray and Tom did a wonderful job designing and building this unit. This is the most stable adjuster I've had the pleasure of using. No movement whatsoever! Now if I just had a better setup for the pump. Jim Rettick of Right Angle Tools offered me a nice setup for the pump unit, but I haven't gone to get it yet.
Another nice feature for any wheel, regardless of the adjuster is to incorporate dovetail slides for side to side adjustment. The more features you have on your wheel, the more versatile it becomes.
http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3171/11lower_adjuster_2-med.jpg?1431
http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3171/11lower_adjuster-med.jpg?6578
http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3171/11lower_adjuster_dovetail_slide.jpg?7034
Peter Miles
01-11-2004, 08:31 PM
If the ram/piston has a flat milled on it, that seems to imply that the milled length never retracts to the seals on the cylinder.
Is that the case here, or are we looking at a ram extension that's screwed into (or welded to) the top of the standard ram?
It would be interesting to see some pictures of this adjuster in a disassembled condition.
What sort of pump setup was Jim Retick suggesting for you?
Randy Ferguson
01-11-2004, 08:38 PM
Hi Peter,
It may very well be an extension. I've not had it apart to see exactly how it's put together. Wray or Tom could shed some light on this. I'm sure, but I think what Jim offered was some sort of electronic device. I'll have to take a road trip and get it one of these days. Right now I'm swamped with a heavy work load and trying to meet deadlines. I HATE DEADLINES :x
Dutch Comstock
01-12-2004, 06:23 PM
Randy, No wonder you don`t like deadlines.Everytime lately I have seen a picture of you, you are taking a nap on the BIGGEST wheel. Dutch
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