View Full Version : Take a look, and tell me what you think?
04-03-2006, 06:32 PM
I haven't written much on this forum yet, but I am starting to get some of my projects finished, or started I should say. And wanted to see what you thought.
This one is my latest project.
It's my chassis/jig table. This is a 1" thick trench plate; you know those plates they use to cover big holes in the road when they are repairing something. I picked this up from a friends business for less than scrap steel price. It's 12' long, 5' wide, 1" thick, and 2,500 lbs. I am building the frame out of 4"x4"x.25" square tubing. I picked this up at the local metal scrap yard, and will sand blast the whole setup when everything is finished.
I still have some more cross-bracing to do to the frame, and I plan on using a magnetic drill-press to put some holes in the 1" plate for jig fixtures, as well as clamp placement when working on chassis's. I also have to cap off the bottoms of the legs so I can tap and install my leveling pads.
So let me know what you think, and if you have any thoughts as other items I should include, or use, to make this table further suit my needs.
Here is a link to my gallery for more pictures.
04-03-2006, 07:07 PM
Looks like it's going to be a great table Andrew. On mine I put "sockets" under the table where I could slide adapters in to hold a vice, bender, dolly or what ever in each corner. Trailer recievers ready made from Northern would work real good, I had some thick wall rectangular stock and used that.
On the levelers drop down aprons to stop hoses cable or cords from catching them would be nice. It's a pain in the rear here.
04-20-2006, 08:08 PM
Well got to work on the table again last week-end, and got it up on the frame. Only one little mistake to fix but other than that it is turning out great. I guess I wanted to over build it every way I could, so the leveling pads are rated at 7,000lbs. each X6 and you got 42,000lbs. worth of capacity. Like I will ever have that much on there. Now that things are getting further I am looking into other options for this table, and am now wanting to see if I can get the plate blanchard ground, to insure its flat and accurate. The casters were a last minute add on as I wanted the option of moving this thing without a fork lift. But in the efforts of trying to keep it as low as possible on the leveling pads I got it to close, and pads barely scrape the ground when they are in all the way. So I have to cut the spot welds and shim the casters about 1/4" for alittle room. Let me know if you guys think I need to add anything else.
04-21-2006, 04:35 AM
Wow! Very nice! Are you planing to build big rig chassis on that thing?
One addition I might recommend is a few bolt lugs so you can bolt it to the floor... It would be terrible if a strong wind blew threw the shop and tipped it over...:D
04-21-2006, 04:54 AM
With the red and blue colors on the base, I would have guessed a model train layout for American Flyer.
Very substantial, to say the least.
04-21-2006, 06:33 AM
If you find some one to grind the top, have the edges ground square also, so you can measure off each side. Also a centerline ground or scribed into the top helps.
04-21-2006, 07:22 AM
I'm not familiar with these grinding services, do they come to you or do you have to take that fairly heavy looking table to their shop? I would have thought they could bring some kind of grinder there, what kind off tolerances can they hold? Any price quotes from people that had it done?
04-21-2006, 09:17 AM
Thanks guys, ya this thing is beefy. For the grinding process's I have to take it to them, and they place it on a machine like this.
I have had a hard time finding a place some what close to perform this, I might have a source in Ok. which is about 2 hr. away. Need to call back on Monday as the guy that runs the machine was out today. This process is very accurate, more so than I will need, to with-in .001" from corner to corner. I am also looking into having laser cut holes placed thru out the surface as for jig setup, and for clamping, if another place can do this it would be awesome to have them place a grid on for measurements, I would also have them clean the sides to make all measurements accurate.
I also have an idea of using some oil field pump jack ways on the top surface, I've got a few extra laying around at work, they are really heavy cast iron t-slotted for when aligning the gas motors to the pump-jack. These would make things very precise, and all I would have to do it mill the surfaces parallel, and put them to use.
Here is a pic of what some of the ways look like, they are sloted top and bottom, so I can clamp them to the table via the holes, and then clamp what ever to the top t-slot.
Thanks for looking, and the comments.
04-21-2006, 09:25 AM
Hey where do you live? Where in Ok did you find a grind shop that would consider it? I have a little fab table I would sure like to have ground. It's a 54x80x2"....................john
04-21-2006, 10:31 AM
Hey Boogiemanz1 the place I am looking at is Mertz in Ponca City phone 580-762-5646 talk to Russ Cummings. There is a place on eBay,
http://cgi.ebay.com/STEEL-PLATE-CUT-TO-ANY-SHAPE-STEEL-PLATE_W0QQitemZ7610766492QQcategoryZ92088QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/STEEL-PLATE-CUT-TO-ANY-SHAPE-STEEL-PLATE_W0QQitemZ7610766492QQcategoryZ92088QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
this place is loacted in Bixby, and they can mill the plate, I looked at them but the time to mill my plate is $2500 because of 13 hours of machine time, grinding will go alot faster. I am still looking at this place for the laser cutting of the edges, and the holes. Hope this helps
ACS STEEL COMPANY
3613 EAST 143RD STREET SOUTH
BIXBY, OK 74008
1-866-745-8315 toll free tele.
1-866-691-3219 toll free fax
Let me know, and maybe we can get a price for more work by going in together.
04-21-2006, 01:20 PM
That's wild, I know that guy and didn't even know this place existed. Bixby isn't that big of a place. His brother in-law told me he bought water jet, but I never knew he even had it going........
My Table is cut out already. but the top is not as smooth as I would like. I would buy a magnetic base drill if I were you, or rent one to put the holes in your table...that is my plan if I ever get time
We have a few other members fron the Wichita area also. I'f you come down this way. look me up...............john
04-21-2006, 03:15 PM
1. Depending on the way the steel was rolled at the mill, taking off one surface will cause it to warp and twist.
2. Grinding a plate that size will likley heat it somewhat causing a warp. The grinder grinds off the heat induced hump and the plate if flat .......til it cools and goes back to flat. however the heat induced hump was ground away , so you now have a hollow spot.
So the grinder guy really knows what he is doing and the plate is PERFECT! as soon as you move the plate off the grinder table perfect is no more . the plate will not carry its own weight.
The ROD DOC is right. Laser it in adjust as close as possible and enjoy the build. Nice job on the table level it and leave it set.
04-23-2006, 07:34 AM
Thanks Guys for the comments,
And thanks both Richard's for the suggestions.
My first concern last week when I first set the plate on the frame was that the middle top support was to high or something because when standing on the plate it would wobble, and looked like the plate was tweaked, as when looking at the frame the plate had a gap of about 1/4" on both ends. This weekend I broke out my precision ground 3' straight edge, to see if it was the frame or the plate, well it was the plate. Just sitting on the frame, with the straight edge centered in width way I had a 1/4" bow at just 3', at 5' it would of been maybe 1/2". So what me and my friend did was clamp the table down using a heavy piece of angle, and this pushed the outside edges down. with the straight edge still in place with it clamped down, I could barely see light in the middle. which is close enough for me, we started clamping at one end, and welded 4" long tacks on each side then moved down 8" and did it again, and again until the hole thing sat flat, all I need to do now is have the hole thing sand blasted, and paint the frame, and hand sand/grind the surface for a good clean prepped surface. And this saved me a lot of extra effort having it ground not to mention a lot of money too.
Thanks again guys, any other suggestions are still much appreciated.
04-23-2006, 03:19 PM
Sounds like a good approach - as long as the 1" plate is not a strong enough spring to release the stresses that you clamped into it by warping (over time) the tubes to which it is welded back to what the plate wants to consider a neutral position.
For the modest amount of deflection that was required, I wouldn't think that it would be a real concern, however. I doubt that kind of plate makes a very good spring.
Just call me Mr. Gloom & Doom
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