Making my first shape. (pictures included)

[Bradley Berthold]

Well, I don't have ALL the right tools yet, so I guess I couldn't expect this test project to turn out too professional as of yet, I did this today to start trying to see how to shape metal.

First off, I didn't want to wait to order any shot bags online, and I haven't found any around these parts yet, so I decided to make my own. I just got a sheet of leather from Wal-Mart and some BB's and sewed up a bag myself. Works great when you use a Sewing Awl. Using the traditional Lock-Stitch the bag is very strong.

Shot Bag
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/shotbag.jpg


Here's the small 12oz hammer I bought to try getting started on a shot bag with, it's got a plastic head and a rubber head, I used the plastic head to "shape" this project with over the shot bag. The other hammer is a common metal hammer I planned to use for shrinking over a wood log, I know it's not the right kind to use for proper shrinking, but I figured it would work well enough for a first project just to see how things work.

The Hammers
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/hammers.jpg


I got the book "Sheet Metal Handbook" by Ron Fournier, and in it he describes a beginner project of making a teardrop shape out of aluminum. I used a aluminum sheet about 6" by 11" long and drew a teardrop shape and cut it out to use for the shaping, and filed the cut edges smooth. I then annealed it like the book suggests to do for a beginner project, using a MAPP torch. I could definitely tell the annealing worked because the sheet metal could be bent easily by hand. Here's a small pic of the section of the book.

Small book excerpt
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/book.jpg


Then I started pounding on it, starting in the center as the book directs, and working my way outward. It actually shaped rather well, and after I annealed it another time started stretching very well. The edges started to fold up of course so I "shrunk" them using the steel hammer on a piece of wood log. I all seemed to work except for a few things.

The top of the shaped aluminum
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/teartop.jpg


From the top, it "looks" ok, although it needs some planishing to make it smooth. Also, of course the edges are very rough from using the small metal hammer with such a small face. I actually damaged some of the metal and marred it. I know this is a big no-no but this was just a test in some sorts, sort of a pre-beginner beginner project. (Also to test my homemade shot bag).

Here's one problem I saw happen...:

The side of the shaped aluminum
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/tearside.jpg

As you can see, the metal teardrop started to buckle on me in another dimension. The book shows the teardrop as flat. I don't know for sure what I did to make this happen. Did I pound to far down the narrow end? Did I shrink the folded edges to frequently or too far?

When I was working the metal I managed to get the shape to look like step 1 in the book pictures, but by step "2" my metal shape was starting to curve on me as well like the picture above shows. This isn't what they show in the book so I'm not sure what I did to cause it....any input guys?

Here's a couple more pics.

Shot bag and teardrop
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/tearshot.jpg

Teardrop bottom
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/tearbottom.jpg


Teardrop and hand to show size
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/tearhand.jpg

-nt20

[Wray Schelin]

Hi NT,

Hey, with just the minimum tools you made something.:D You are real close. Here is what you need to do.

See picture:


http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3084/4tearbottom1.jpg?8021


You just have to think that the metal is like clay and not what you "think " metal is like.

Wray

[Bradley Berthold]

Thanks Wray! Good advice, that looks like the solution..hehe you are right, a person has to change the way they think about metal while doing this. :)

-Brad Berthold (nikolatesla20)

[Rob Murray]

bag looks great.....but something i learned the hard way.....even though you got quality Daisy b-b's which some are copper coated and some have a silver coating........they will rust. thats probly why the guys way back used lead shot.....which is now sort'a expensive. sand is an excellent alternative. :D

[Bradley Berthold]

Hehe,

Well Wray I think I messed that panel up too much to recover it, in the fact that I folded those edges down before it was close to being finished. I tried working it some more, I brought the edges back up so I could stretch some more, but it just didn't want to come back, it only got deeper. Plus some of the damage from the not-so-good shrinking hammer started to split the metal and crack it. No real loss, all part of the learning process!

I decided it might be better to try again, so I cut out another piece of AL and started fresh, this time making sure NOT to crush any tucks that would change the shape front to back. In fact, as of yet on this new teardrop, I haven't really shrunk any tucks, I've only just pounded them back out flat. (Well, I tried to shrink a couple but I don't know if it worked or not, I don't have the wood log anymore to pound on right now).

Anyway, I started gently in the center and worked my way out this time, and it started to come out much better. I felt like I knew better what the metal was going to do this time around. I could actually see it stretch when I hit it each time.

After some work the bottom is really close to being flat to the table all the way around, it's not quite there, but close. I decided to take a break from trying to pound the heck out of it, and to try my hand at planishing. I picked up a dolly set at Harbor Freight and also a small 6lb Anvil to work on ( I live in an apartment). Using the anvil and dolly and a car body hammer I was able to planish while watching TV. The nice thing about planishing is it isn't really loud, I can just tap-tap-tap and take my time. I think it came out rather well. I sanded the top with some 80 and then 220 grit, you can see small low spots on the metal from this. Also, if you look close you can see some faint planishing hammer marks.

Coming out a lot better now...after some planishing on new teardrop shape
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/newteartop.jpg


bottom of new teardrop, not too bad so far
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/newtearbottom.jpg


Even tho the teardrop isn't finished, I thought it would be better for my mental sanity to planish it, just to see how it works, those two pictures aren't too bad I don't think..

Anyway, the tip still needs to come down to the table, and the sides are lifted just a teensy bit, so here's some ideas I was having on trying to complete this.

A couple ideas on how to finish this up..
The tip and sides...
http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/newteartopnotes.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/metal/newtearbottomnotes.jpg


I really want to thank you for your help so far on this, I know it takes some effort to take time out of your day to take care of this site.

-Brad B.

[Wray Schelin]

Hi Brad ,

Man you have to get a small e-wheel so you can planish very quietly while watching TV. :D I'm really impressed by your can-do spirit.
The funny thing is a lot of folks take years to get started in this craft because they want to get everything just right and know everything they can about the craft before starting. :roll: You have proved that anyone can learn this craft with very few tools, and the best way to learn is to get started. You'll have a hard time getting a completed car body out of your apartment though. :shock:

That front edge that is sitting off the surface can be brought down two ways . One you can shrink the edge and it will come down , or two : you can stretch the area about 3/4"-1" in from the front edge. When you bring the front edge down those high spots on the side will even out.

Thanks for the appreaciation of my efforts to help build this site. For me it just a fun thing to do. My typing skills have gotten much better over the years , I'm hoping my writing skills will ...... :D

Wray

[Bradley Berthold]

Actually haven't any plans for a car body just yet, and if/when I get to that stage, I got a buddy out in the country with 10 acres and a garage, so I guess I'd be bribing him with Mountain Dew (We love Mountain Dew and Pizza).

For now some small projects that came to mind were maybe some mirror covers for my Ford Focus (so I can paint them the color of the car), and maybe some trim cover (once again, to paint the color of the car). I know I could prolly just try painting the plastic, but this is much more fun and interesting :D Maybe also after a little while making a new grille, and possibly a spoiler. I think I could squeeze those small projects out without having too much space :P .

Would be nice to have a small e-wheel, I'm tempted to try building a small one :D Especially when it gives you such a nice shiny surface finish.

-Brad B.

[goleafsgo_12]

did you use just mapp to anneal? or map and oxy?

[Jeff Nelson]

That project from Ron Fournier's book was my first attempt at metal shaping too. My part did the same thing that your first one did, that is, the flange didn't sit flat. I never did fix it, just planished and admired it.

On a different note, I think that Ron made a mistake or at least wrote something confusing in that section of the book. He speaks of "shrinking" the ruffles formed on the edge of the piece. That is what forms the flange. However if you analyze the situation you find that the perimeter hasn't changed. There isn't any shrinking going on at all, just flattening the edge.

[Bambi]

Nice Work...
Like Wray sez ya don't need a whole lot of tools, the lessons learned have to be learned anyways, the same rules apply with machinery.
I might suggest stopping by one of the local welding supply houses and pick up some old gas bottle caps, they are sometimes Free or for a nominal fee. They have nice round heads and are good for beating metal on especially in your case for planishing. You also can take one of the caps and have someone, maybe even the supply house can do it for ya, weld on a handle, now you'll have a nice hammer with a big round head for bangin.
Going to a scrap yard or welding shop you might be able to scrounge a piece of heavy plate, ie. 1/2 or thicker, that and a leather mallet will help you to shrink metal edges.
Tools are in the eye of the beholder, improvise.
Your on your way to becomin a Master.

Bambi

[metaldemonz]

Hey man,
I did the same shape for my first project except I used 18g steel and it did the same thing to (arching in the center all I did was shrink along the flange. and it brought it right into shape