Need a Go-Cart slick?

[FriarTuck]

Hey guys, found a source for reasonably priced Go-Cart slicks. The only drawback I see is they are 5/8" bore. I ordered one, and it works great.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006031520161984&item=1-2747&catname=wheels

Tuck

[Timmy_k]

Thanks for the post Tuck. Great find.

timmy_k

[Kerry Pinkerton]

The other problem with that wheel Tuck is that the hub is off center. It probably won't make much difference but in practice but we seached for one with a centered hub so the load on both bearings would be the same.

You can replace those bearings with 3/4" sizes if you wanted to.

[Ron G]

Kerry
The discription said it is a centered hub, or is there something that I am missing through my old age and ignorance? Don't know, just asking someone with more knowledge than me.
Ron

[Kerry Pinkerton]

You're right I guess. It sure looks like it's all the way to the outside rim on the photo side and USUALLY that indicates it's offset in on the other side. The description says it has a 4" hub... Get one and try it if you can live with the 5/8 axle or are willing to try and change the bearings.

I ordered a similar wheel from them a few months back and found that when I tried to change the bearings to the one's we use (3/4" bore flange bearings) the new bearings were loose in the wheel. That could be resolved but was more trouble than it was worth for us so we decided to stick with the wheels we've been using. That Surplus Center wheel did have a centered hub but the photo was different. I actually called them and they checked on it for me. On that wheel the hub width was about 2 1/8" Anyway, the only way to know for sure is to order one and find out.

[FriarTuck]

Hi Kerry, the one I got, which is the one I linked to above, is centered. I think what they meant in the description is that there is a 3/8" offset on both sides. They also offer one that has an offset to one side, and the tire is a smidge taller. The bearing isn't the best quality, and I'm not sure a person would be able to fit in good roller bearings where the outside bushings are. I stuck a 5/8" striper thru it, and seems to do great. They have a 3" wide "caged needle" type bearing that goes the full distance thru the center between the outside bushings. Seems pretty good for the price.

Tuck

[jvo]

Watch the rim you get, also. The first one I bought at Princess Auto here in Canada was a real bargain. It was less than $10.00. When I put it on the yoke, turned out the rim was stamped out-of-round (the other offset). I took it back to the store, and bought one for $17.00 and it was much better. If I had a lathe, I'd probably make my own. John V.O.

[FriarTuck]

After reading what Kerry and John had to say about their attempts to use cheaper wheels, I punched out the original bushings and bearing cage, and tried a standard size roller bearing, and sure enough, it just dropped right thru like Kerry said. I took and hour or so, and came up with this workaround.

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3799/medium/Slick.jpg

The center sleeve is plain ole 1 1/4" copper pipe from my housebuilding days, and the bearings are standard 1 3/8" OD roller bearings from my bearing box. The shim stock is .005", and is plenty tight enough. This seems to work just fine.

After what John said about the out-of-round hub he got stuck with, I checked the run-out on the hub, and found it to be negligable. Still have less than $30 in the wheel, so figure it is a bargin.

Tuck

[Ron G]

$30, that's considering the fact that you work cheap, your 1 hour labor. Just kidding, I'd probably do the same. Just a thought, is there a Metric bearing that might be the right size? How hard would the tire roll on the wheel with the bearings that were in it? Course we hate to leave anything "stock".
Ron

[FriarTuck]

Hi Ron, using a Go-Cart slick over a full radius anvil isn't close tolerance work. This one woked just fine out of the box. I was just responding to things that other guys found, because I don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. This was just one way to upgrade the wheel some "on the cheap".

Tuck

[Ron G]

Course you could have used a sealed roller thrust bearing on the sides to eliminate wobble if properly torqued, I think they're called Torringtons or something like that. Just pulling your chain. I don't even have a wheel so what do I know? Still trying to learn, but I'm running out of time. LOL
Ron

[jlrussell4]

Hi Tuck,

I priced the wheel and slick and with freight it was almost $32.00. You must live closer than me. http://206.125.208.236/forum/images/smilies/icon_mad.gif Anyways, I didn't go for it yet. Too many other projects that aren't getting done now.http://206.125.208.236/forum/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif

[FriarTuck]

Hi Jim, I bought two of them and some other stuff, so the shipping was all combined. Just buying the single wheel would be more expensive. I was looking into putting a 10 ton hydraulic ram on my JD2 Model 3 tubing bender, and found the same 10" SPX spring return ram that JD2 wants $388 bucks for, at the Surplus Center for $149. Picked one up, and now I'm figuring out how to implement it. Love this retired life. I just don't know how I ever had time to work for a living.:lol: Later

Tuck

[Dawai]

northerntool.com has them also, about $15.. I have a few rims laying about.. I got two on the way.. Kerry opened up my eyes with his over at dixieland. I lusted after the quick bends.. I got a lathe for the lower rollers..

I also got the ewheel w/8"cylinder jack working today.. it has too much pressure.. the hoosier anvils I got are flat contact patch.. they sure shiny up the metal stripe after stripe.. top wheel is a www.grainger.com forged roller @141$ frame is a old homemade r*covell clone.. I plan on running two wheels on the frame at once, one inboard, one outboard, adding in a jack and adjustor.. of course the cnc is broke down.. **** bill anyways.. xp died.. having to use the ***choke** table top drill press...

[Dawai]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/ibewgypsie/sscn1388.jpg

this is a homemade model3.[same bolt pattern]. turned up on it's end, bolted to the end of a homemade welding table.. power plant is under table, a old greenlee hydraulic power pack 120volt.. plc is unitronics keypad-lcd-plc..

my shop is so small, I had to turn the bends up, no room to swing them sideways.. there was one harley frame i used to bend up, i had to put it all on blocks to get clearance..

by the way, 24"stroke equals 110 degrees..

if i can help, email me..