Made a patch panel!

[rob_edwards]

I've been lurking on and off here for a while, but I had to post this. I'm working on an MGC GT, and they're a little different from MGBs, even though at first glance they look pretty similar. Anyway, the lower 3" or so of the transmission tunnel on the left side is rotted away. I got a cut out of an MGB that I was able to make fit enough to use for most of it, but I wasn't able to get the forwardmost 12" or so. For engine clearance, there's a hump just above where the floor meets the tunnel right by the accelerator pedal. Using the techniques I've picked up here, I made this.

It's not pretty, but I'm proud of it anyway! ;-)

[Chop]

Good work, keep up with the practice, and you will improve.
Chop

[Boogiemanz1]

Great Rob, now you have a start in Metalshaping. That patch didn't take a bunch of tools did it? You learned something making it.......so why stop now? you can continue to copy and make shapes and increase your skill.....come to a meet and see firsthand what can be done and learn a bit more...............I guarentee that just just getting off the couch and starting a project is the hardest part for most guys don't you agree?.................good job............john

[houseoffubar]

I'd be proud to put it in my car! What kind of tools did you use to make this? It takes a fair bit of skill to make pretty parts even with lots of expensive tools, And even more when you have to improvise it. keep up the good work. Eric :idea:

[rob_edwards]

Thanks for the kind words!

To make it, I started with a ball-peen hammer and a piece of firewood. Once I had it roughed out, I used a body hammer and dolly to planish it and refine the shape (checking it against a contour gauge I used on the part left in the car). Once I was satisfied with the bowl shape, I flattened the flange and then folded it over in a vise. I still need to cut about a half inch off the top to fit it to the car. Tomorrow I'll weld it in, then install the new (store-bought) floor panel.

It's going to be hard to install because it's in probably the least accessible place in the footwell. The good news is that it'll be covered by carpet so no one will see the crappy welding!

I can't help but smile when I think that a piece of firewood was part of the process. ;-)

Cheers!

[CCWKen]

That's a darn good start Rob! You'd be supprised at what you can use to shape metal. It sounds to me like you're hooked. :D Keep the pics coming.

[houseoffubar]

I keep hearing that the old Ferrari bodys were built using a wood stump ( not sure if it was a Bugly) :razz: some mallets, and little else. You'll probably have to be pretty cold to burn that piece of wood now, Huh? Eric

[rob_edwards]

Here it is installed. I need to dress the weld some more, but you get the idea. Keep in mind as you look at this that I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing! ;-)

[FriarTuck]

Hey Rob, nice work. You are officially a "metalshaper", and a **** good one by the looks of things. Keep us posted. Kudos

Tuck

[rob_edwards]

Thanks, but I'm going to write off a large part of it to beginner's luck!

Cheers!

[abonecoupe31]

Your welds look like they'll do fine........

Your first effort looks GREAT!!!

On my first car, a 64 Ford Falcon station wagon, (back in 1974, when I was in college)...I replaced my rusted out front floorboards with the sheetmetal sides from an old gas dryer my dad junked when it finally wore out.

It had the 90 degree bends I needed to attach to the rocker panel side too :-) Just trim it to fit....

You found out by trial and error what it takes to make a formed part...and it's looks really nice!

Mark aka Abonecoupe31

[Ernie Ferrucci]

Hi Rob
Nice work, your on the right track.
Rob wrote:Thanks, but I'm going to write off a large part of it to beginner's luck!

I disagree, you did it and you can do it againhttp://www.metalmeet.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif. Keep us posted.

[rob_edwards]

Well, since folks said "keep us posted", here's the patch panel welded in and the new floorboard glued down. I used Fusor®, which I've never used before. It's supposed to be as strong as welding (probably stronger than my welding ;-) and it supposedly seals the join and excludes moisture so there's no issue with rust. We'll see.

The bits I welded in are the cut from the MGB (the rear third of the tunnel repair), a flat panel with a little jog in that I made, and the humped panel that started all this. As I said, the floor is glued down, and the dirt on it came from the concrete block I used to weigh it down. The screws are temporary until the glue sets.

Cheers!

[Hairy-Neil]

I used Fusor®, which I've never used before. It's supposed to be as strong as welding (probably stronger than my welding ;-) and it supposedly seals the join and excludes moisture so there's no issue with rust. We'll see.

Cheers!

Is doubtful whether this would pass UK MOT, if the tester was able to see that it was not welded, though many people use the "MOT Carpet" principle.. :roll:

[abonecoupe31]

Nice job..and you're a high teck guy too ....using an adhesive to glue the floor board down...

Detroit uses these adhesives today...

Get some rust proofing done on that floor pan before you put the carpeting back in.

POR is a good one... www.getrust.com

or call Imperial Restroration at 1-800-576-5822

Eastwood sells a anti rust system too..

and there is good old Red Rustoleum for the old school guys--and roofing tar underneath...

Just my two cent's worth...

Mark aka Abonecoupe31

[rob_edwards]

You're probably right -- I understand your MOT testers are very strict. I presume the MOT Carpet principle means that as long as it's hidden by carpet, it's ok? ;-)

In the US, our DOT (Department of Transportation) have certified Fusor in safety crash tests, so I'm fairly comfortable trying it. So far it seems VERY secure.

Link to Fusor website (http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1150)

[rob_edwards]

Hi Mark,
I'm definitely going to rustproof it! I've got a little more metalwork to do, then the entire thing is getting a coat of POR-15. I learned yesterday that the supply house where I got the adhesive also stock POR-15, so no more need for mail-order. For the cavities and inaccessible places, I'm going to fill up my garden sprayer and inject Penetrol (http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Exterior/PaintAdditives/Penetrol_Exterior+Additives.htm). (Penetrol is sold as a paint flow additive, but it's also a very good rust preventative. I've used it on my MGB and so far there's been NO rust where I applied it.) After that, I'll seam seal it, insulate it, and then put the carpets back in.

Here's a little more on the cars, if anyone's interested:
http://www.mgcarz.com

Cheers!

[Chassisguy]

The patch panel looks great. Using the glue is comman pratice for a lot of the body shops around here. But most of all I like the way you held the panel in place. Thats thinking outside the box :grin: .
I am working on a project right now that a "body shop" had done before, man I wish their work would have been as good as yours. It would make my job now a lot easier. ;)

[Kerry Pinkerton]

I had a 69 'b' about 30 years ago. My wife was pregnant with Kris our oldest (she just loved trying to get into the car) and he's 29. Mine had crome wires and was burgundy but worn slap out!. I bought it from a co-worker and he saw me coming.Still I really enjoyed the car...except when it rained and then the prince of darkness took over and it wouldn't start.

[Ernie Ferrucci]

Hi Rob
The floor work looks great. I'm very familiar with Penetrol, it's a good product for applying alkyd paints and I have used it to hold down rust. But I think you should check for compatibility between the Penetrol and the POR-15. I've never used the POR-15 and I don't know what type of material it is. I have heard good things about it for coating rust.

[rookie]

Looks good Rob. Your weld look really good, not much distortion. I'd be happy with that, Like CCKen said, bet your hooked!

Nice work, Phil

[Hairy-Neil]

You're probably right -- I understand your MOT testers are very strict. I presume the MOT Carpet principle means that as long as it's hidden by carpet, it's ok? ;-)

In the US, our DOT (Department of Transportation) have certified Fusor in safety crash tests, so I'm fairly comfortable trying it. So far it seems VERY secure.

Link to Fusor website (http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1150)

Yes, the testers are only allowed to look and feel with finger pressure only. They're not allowed to lift carpets, poke, scratch, hammer etc. so if something looks ok it will pass. However, if the welds are visible they must be to original spec. or be continuous welded. Brazing, screwing, bolting, riveting, clinching, glassfibre and adhesives are all a no no for structural repairs to an existing car.

The Fusor (and the brazing, screwing, bolting, riveting, clinching, glassfibre and body adhesives) would be ok in a scratch built car too as pretty well anything goes with these.

[rob_edwards]

I'm amazed at how little distortion there is. Of course, I try to keep the heat in check. Rather than forming long beads, I instead blow little holes at 1" intervals, and then come back along and fill in by blowing more little holes between.... ;-)