Brought my project car home yesterday!

[Jemo]

Well, I finally brought it home yesterday! The pics aren't very good but you get an idea. It needs new floorpans, patches on both lower quarters, both lower front fenders, and the passenger rocker. Lots of surface rust.

Not sure where to begin but open to suggestions. I just started taking my first TIG class about 6 weeks ago and am planning on buying a machine for the house in a month or less. If anyone knows any web sites that show step-by-step on sheetmetal replacement, it would be lots of help. Never done this type of work before but am anxious to try it out!

It's a '56 Chevy 210.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128036.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128033.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128030.jpg

Jeff

[Pete's Metalshaping]

Nice car, if you have any questions, just ask. There are a few of us that put a patch panel in once.<lol>

[anders nørgaard]

Well, I finally brought it home yesterday! The pics aren't very good but you get an idea. It needs new floorpans, patches on both lower quarters, both lower front fenders, and the passenger rocker. Lots of surface rust.

Not sure where to begin but open to suggestions. I just started taking my first TIG class about 6 weeks ago and am planning on buying a machine for the house in a month or less. If anyone knows any web sites that show step-by-step on sheetmetal replacement, it would be lots of help. Never done this type of work before but am anxious to try it out!

It's a '56 Chevy 210.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128036.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128033.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/131128030.jpg

Jeff

Hi Jeff,
You've come to the right place!!!!!!http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

The little guy in the pics... is that your shop assistant? http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif

[FriarTuck]

Hi Jeff, great project car. First step is to strip it and clean it up. Get the old paint off so you can see what you have to look forward to. Gonna be a real looker when you're done. Take your time, do it right.

Tuck

[underdog57]

Hey Jeff ,
I like the Tri Fives alot !!! Check out this site .....
http://www.linger.com/nomad/

Good luck with it , you found a great resource with MM !!!
What are your plans???Hop it up no doubt ??

Bob

[rookie]

Hi Jeff. Looks pretty good from where I'm at, (The saltbelt!). The only down fall that I see so far is the missing window chrome, It's kinda pricey. Going to be a cool car though, can't go wrong with a Tri 5.

Since you haven't replaced panels before and will be feeling out your TIG, I would start with the floor pans, practice getting a good fit, welding, Hammer and dolly work to get the heat shrunk metal back in alignment, and if it isn't perfect, nobody's going to see it. You just try again on the next piece. It will give you some experience before you tackle the outer skin.

Best of luck to you, post plenty of pics, and ask plenty of questions.


Looking forward to seeing your progress, Phil

[Dan Williams]

make it easy on yourself an build yourself a rotisory.I did and it only took a couple of days,cleaned up some of my scrap pile.I built it 45" tall an based it on an engine stand. same thing only taller. I have a removable uprite so I can use the casters and bases for a body dolly. I also have a shorter uprite & head to make two engine stands. it a 4 in 1 tool since I have a small 4 stall shop. great car & good luck.

[j bonnell]

looks like you got some good help there.

[Korey Wood]

YOOU LUCKY DOG. If you can't tell from my avatar let it be known that my heart belongs to the '56 Chevy. Crocus Yellow and Onyx Black droptops, Nomads and any others that happen to be around! One of the many great places to start is with a factory service/body manual for the particular year you have. The original manuals have a alot of specific details about the subtle nuances between the various models for that year. Not always cheap but well worth the money for the information and the wear and tear on your sanity in the process. There is every imaginable part available now for tri-fives up to and including complete frames from various manufacturers not to mention the power of the sharing available in this community. Nice to see you cutting your teeth on such a sweet old gal... If she ever gets on your nerves...look me up..Please use this community to it's fullest capacity to fulfill your dream. You'll be happy you did...Welcome...Enjoy the ride and remember to share pictures along your journey together,

Korey Wood

[87gtmustang]

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/500/100_1351s.JPG

Just thought you might like to see this then too! Its a 55 chevy were working on. It has an Art Morrison chassis, Bill Mitchell 427 small block with 530 hp, all stainless exhaust and fluid lines, braided hoses, 20" x 10" Boyd rims in back 18" in front, (not on in this picture of course) Tru Trac pulley and acc. system. Shaved door handles, doors, trunk and the gas filler will be operated by remote. Fuel door moved behind tailight, and is motorized. Scratch made inner fenders and radiator mount. Smoothed firewall, recessed license plate. Cut 1 1/2" out of the lower nose section behind bumper to bring it closer to the body and trimmed the bumper to match wheel wells. Both one piece bumpers. Custom in house billet parking lights. It is going to sit very low! Removed passenger side dash hump, and filled in glove box, ash tray and etc. welded seams and smoothed it up. Vintage air system. Beefed up 700R4 and 9" ford rearend. Power windows, tinted glass. Goes on and on. Cool thing is after we finish this one, the owner has a 57 he wants to bring in and do the exact same thing to, plus chop the top. It is alot closer to being done now, but this is the most recent picture i have on the computer.
Brian =)

[Dick Bear]

Isn't that exciting...?

I love it when a man goes ahead and does something he's always wanted to do.

I look forward to progress shots. Take a bunch of them and then share them so we can see what you're doing and how.

Good luck!

Dick Bear

[Joefish]

Hi Jeff

Congratulations on the new project!

I love a new project, mine or yours. Keep your helper in the pic so we can watch them both.

I have a vast knowlage base in this aera and am happy to share.

Phil and Dan are right on the money and you have chosen a car the parts are available.

Good Luck Joe

[Jemo]

Thanks everyone for all of the replies.

YES, pretty nervous about cutting, grinding, and welding on that car but I'll give it a shot.

I don't recall a single class on sheetmetal repairs in pharmacy school so I'll surely be leaning on all of you for help. :D Maybe to the point of being annoying.

I'm going to order the replacement sheetmetal this week or next and order the TIG welder as soon as I figure out how to put a 220V outlet in the garage (another dilemna) and finish my taxes.

Thanks a bunch,
Jeff

[87gtmustang]

Jeff, are you just going to do a restoration back to original, or do you have any customizing ideas in your head?

Brian =)

[Jemo]

Hey Brian,

The car you're working on is a great motivator and sorta the way that I want to go except my budget isn't quite that large. :) Some people like to restore them back to original but I want the car to be comfortable and fun to drive. Here are some of my ideas:

Front end:
I was looking at most of the stuff on this page, including the coil overs
http://www.heidts.com/heip24.htm#CoilOver
Also, a rack/pinion kit and power disc brakes in the front.

Rear end:
I was looking at this setup:
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/productdet.cfm?prodID=831
Probably just leave drums in the back.

Maybe you can help me decide if those above are good parts. One frustrating thing for me is that when I call these vendors to ask questions, they're not real helpful and don't want to spend an extra minute or two talking about the pluses and minuses of going a certain way. I guess that most of their customers are builders that know exactly what they want.

I *thought* that the stuff above would just bolt on and I wouldn't have to worry about it any more but from reading other posts on the Chevy forum, it's not as cut and dry. The coil-overs come in different spring rates (front and rear) and there are other things I guess that can affect the ride and ride height. I have zero idea how to figure that part out.

For the engine, I was originally just going to buy a crate 350 from GM because it's pretty straight forward. You can buy a brand-new 350 from them for $1600 with 290 hp. Add a rebuilt transmission and you're easily over $3000 after buying the extras and misc. parts. I was talking to a friend and he's going to put a 4.8L out of a Chevy truck into his car. He bought the engine, tranny, harnesses, computer, etc for only $1200. There are vendors that make these pretty easy installs if you buy their re-worked harnesses and have them reflash the PCM. As well, I see take-out Camaro/Firebird/Corvette engine-tranny combos on eBay for $3K-$4K. So...too many choices and am still undecided. Having a fuel-injected engine would be a huge plus to me but I need to stay within a budget. Any thoughts? Do any of you have contacts in the salvage yard business where I could buy the take-out engine?

For now, I jsut want to concentrate on installing the patch panels and knocking off the surface rust.

Jeff

[roger n cindy]

Jeff, go back it's a trap :???: but it's probably too late anyway :wink:
we , uncle johnny and i, have been addicted to old cars forever. it sucks away your money / time and sanity. on the otherhand , we don't spend enormous amounts of time hanging around saloons, the police kinda like us, our wives know exactly where were at (all the time) it's a hobby we can include the family in. OK go ahead and build your carS.
we have delt with both the vendors that you list and there product are top quality. i'm suprised they haven't been more help to you they are allways very helpfull to us and we are just hobbiest. try asking them when there going to be at a show in your area so you can attend and ask questions. i'v found closeup and personal is allways a great way to find out what there about and for them to better determin your needs .

roger, president and ceo Bugly toolS

[87gtmustang]

Jeff, you have the right idea. Those are good quality parts like Roger said as well. We use alot of Heidts Mustang II front crossmembers and susp. nice fit, and nice ride. Many times for the rearend, we just get the coilovers, and 4 link bars and then make and weld on brackets making sure everything is aligned properly. If you dont do it all the time, a kit style like that TCI, would be less frustrating and easier to get aligned properly. I am also suprised about the service, try again, maybe you got someone on a bad day. =)

For figuring out spring rates, you could talk to the guys your getting the parts from, and they should be able to help you with your selection, or you can figure it out yourself by weighing the car front and rear, and measureing travel length, etc. We have literature on it somewere, but someone else might know it right off hand, or have it handy to post. A google search should find something too.

For the engine and tranny, if you are trying to save money, you could always buy a 350 chevy and rebuild it. As long as it doesn't need major machine work, you can do it at a reasonable price, and you can also make some choices as to the internals you want. Heads are were the machine shop bill usually rises alot if they need alot of TLC. You may be able to find a tranny at a salvage yard or etc. and find out that it is in good shape after changing filter, oil and a fresh torque converter is a good idea. ($99) in Speedway motors catalog for some. Our most used combo in street rods, is a SBC, and a Turbo 350 tranny, although we are using more 700R4s now, but Turbo 350s will usually be cheaper and easier to find and cheaper to rebuild if needed.

Hope I helped some,
Brian =)

[Korey Wood]

Thanks for the pics of your current projects, cant wait to see the '57 in progress too... and JEMO....LEAN ON MAN, LEEEEEAN ON

Korey Wood

[abonecoupe31]

I'm a Model A guy, but the only car out there other than a Model A that has a good source of parts is the one you chose...and they were good cars too.

(My great uncle bought a 55 Chevy New and drove it for 11 Years....
some kids put sand in the gas tank and the dealer didn't want to work on it, so he bought a 66 and did nothing but complain about it..he had it painted every 3 years by Earl Sheib--that car was SOLID..and he lived in Chicago...)

I have some experience in body work on this type of car (57 Chevy hardtop 210)...I replaced the rusted portions of the inner rockers a section at a time, and replaced both rocker panels (From C.A. R. S.--a good fitting part..) and also the back 10" of the trunk---and the back lower panel beneath the deck lid. I had to form a section of sheetmetal to close up the cutout for the 4 speed shifter that was installed, as well as fix a few non-stock holes in the dash board and firewall.

I had a professional reskin both doors..that was before I had any experience in doing that job..

I used Oxy-Acetylene welding for all of the repairs...hammerwelding as I went...everything turned out very nice.

I'd start on the rockerpanels, then replace the floors, and as you gain experience, make up some patches for the lower fenders. They all seem to rust out in this area...

We sandblasted the rusty areas as we went....and then primed them to keep surface rust down...

It took over a year out of my life, (old girlfriend's dad's car--) and we split up before he finished it. She expected me to keep coming around and work on it...No way...

I never saw it finished off...Maybe he never did finish it..

Mark aka Abonecoupe31

[87gtmustang]

Jeff, I found a pic before you replied the PM with your email address, so here it is. The picture of the chassis without the body on it, you can see the crossmember in the center is very beefy, and the exhaust runs through it. I also found the link to the art morrison ad for the chassis.

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/500/100_1348s.JPG

http://www.artmorrison.com/gtsport.htm

Brian =)

[rookie]

Hi Jeff. Go the easiest way possible. EFI and all thats fine, but carborated with an HEI is very trouble free. $1800 for a NEW crate, or $1200 for an engine, add rebuild, new O2 sensors ect add up pretty quick.

Phil

[norm47]

Jeff-
In one of your first posts you said you have never really done a project like this before. You have also mentioned that you are on a budget. I don't want to bust your ballon, but there is some stuff you gotta know. EVERTHING is going to cost double of what you originally thought,and NOTHING "just bolts on"
. A project like this will take a long time. What you have to do is get this thing on the road as soon as you can. this will keep up your enthusiasm. Sometimes we start on projects and we put months, and years into it and still can't use it.We loose interest and the nextthing you know it's for sale in the local trader paper. Heidt's makes a real nice front end, but what's wrong with the original front end? Maybe just tune it up with some new parts. Lots faster and cheaper too. Same with the back end. Just like Wray says, ya don't need fancy tools to shape metal, ya don't need fancy parts to have a good time with your old car. Get it together safely, get out and drive it and live it. Fancy parts and pretty paint don't make a hot rod, it's the guy behind the wheel, what's in his heart, that's what makes a hot rodder.(gear head, enthusist, old car buff, what ever).

[Derald Timm]

Jeff -
Norm gave you some great advice. If you do what is necessary to make it road worthy and safe you can be driving and enjoying the ride as you continue to make the patch panels as you go and spray with a sealer primer.
You may also consider buying a doner car with the motor and tranny that you would like in the car.
There are many cars with a few miles on them with a good motor and tranny.
With a little cleaning, new timing chain, water pump and paint they may last you for some time or until you are done with the body and are ready to update.
The 318 that I put in my 41 plymouth has lasted about 50,000 miles and is now just getting a little tired.

derald

[jlrussell4]

Hi Jeff,

Norm put into words what I have been thinking since you first posted your project. I don't see any reason to change the suspension on this car. Just replace any worn parts and enjoy.

[Ron G]

I completely agree with the other guys. I don't know where in Texas you are but if your near large city they usually have auctions for vehicles they have impounded. Check with your county sherrif as they sometimes do the same. You might be able to pick one up that has most of what you need, engine ,trans, computer,rear end, tilt steering wheel and on and on. Used should work fine until you get body done and some extra money.
One other thing, when you have the engine out and front clip off, I would buy and install a set of the new engine mounts that convert to late style side mounts and move the engine ahead about an inch to clear the HEI (beats having to hammer dents in your firewall). Available from several places that handle Tri-5 parts. Good time to convert to a 605 power steering box also.
Amazing how much I remember about them since I'm a FORD guy. LOL
Ron

[Jemo]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Getting it running and driveable is fine but nothing can be done until it has new floor pans. The current floors will not support a seat nor feet so this is a #1 priority. As soon as I receive the replacement sheetmetal, I will post asking for help.

"Budget" might have a bad connotation or infer that I want to do all of this with very little money. I have spent a lot of years going to school studying and working at something I'm not happy doing. I've finally taken a giant step and will get this accomplished. I do have a budget that I want to try and stay within but it is just to try and have some boundaries.

Sorry to vent. I've just had a real bad day.

Jeff

[Slick]

Jeff, I noticed you were asking about the TCI four link kit for you car...I just bought one a month or so ago, it's not going in the same car (not even close) but I bought the same exact kit you linked to. It was the most "generic" four link kit TCI offered, my dealer had them not weld the brackets to the crossmember for me also which helped alot. I haven't done much with it other than measuring/test fitting (I need parts in my hands to design as I go) but if you want some pictures of what the kit actually looks like when you get it just let me know. I didn't get any of the fancy polished stainless or chrome bars though...that pictures shows it alot prettier than mine :) I also got their mustang II IFS kit.
You also mentioned having issues with finding out info....I found a dealer that was great, Tim from Tim's hotrods. http://www.timshotrods.com He sells both TCI and Hiedts and was great about helping me pick out what would work best for me and comparing the two companies products with me, I highly recommend him..and he really knows the kits! I was impressed with how well he knew the kits from both companies and my project is anything but a bolt on application so I really needed to pick his brain, he was full of helpful tips on how install them also. Both companies drop ship from the factory anyway so where your dealer is not a big deal...the front suspension kits have free shipping and anything else you get at the same time is also free so I got both at the same time.

[rsanter]

if you want cheap, thik rat rod.
weld in the floor pans, make the suspension and brakes safe and drive it a bit. from there if you can save your money and get the image in your head of what you want the car to be, then you can run with it.

a couple notes of advice.
try to set a schedule to work on it a certain number of hours each week and fix a budget you can set aside each month.
you will be alot better of than the Ill do it when I can or when I get the money. trust me, it never happens

bob

[Jemo]

Thanks again. :)


Some friends and I spent most of yesterday dismantling the car. There are just a few more things to take apart but it's basically a shell now. Most definitely...Bob, last week I made a rough timeline with goals to achieve and a budget to stick by. Real good idea!

Hey Jason. Thanks for the info about your 4-link. I'll check out Tim's shop and give him a call. Last week, I ran into this guy that builds rat rods and asked his opinions about different suspensions. He mentioned that I should look at an air bag suspension.

These 55-57 cars have tooooooooo many options!

Jeff

[kustomizingkid]

Your seems vaugely familar..... okay theres a few differences between the 49-54 and the 55-57's but the faded paint mouse infested interior and the rust....
I can't wait to see your progress wich hopefully will be faster than mine. It looks like a fun project and I can't wait to see it done.

Brandon McCarthy