Machining tooling for Nolan Metlmaster

[Dirk D]

I finally had my Nolan rigged in last week after sitting at the dealer for 7 months because of the weather. It is wired and running. Now comes the task of tooling my machine. I would like to make some beading, louvering, nibbling and profile dies. I would like some pictures of the first three as my machine did not come with any tooling and is 3/4 sqaure and i have full access to a machine shop. I have searched through the gallery , but really haven't found anything. So is there any tips on making the tooling and running the machine?
This machine seems to have quite a stroke since it will shear 1/4" plate (i tried this but i think i have the wrong shear blades) , so was wondering if anybody else owns or has ran a Lennox or Nolan Metlmaster.
Thanks,
Dirk

[Gene_Olson]

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3072
Something like the above?

G

[Dutch Comstock]

Hi Dirk,The making of tooling for your new machine is no different than having a pullmax or other varius nibblers. You get some 3/4 ich cold roll square stock and start practising. You are going to make a male and female press die with a leading edge and a very short straight section so that your die work can work on circular runs. If the angle of the forming die is less than 45 degrees you do not need to worry about side clearance for your material clearance but when you go over 45 degrees you have to allow for the thickness of your part.
I do not know your machine but if it has different strokes the shorter stroke will work best. If you do not have a backgauge or fence you will need to build one that you can adjust for different depths of the machine. Check and see if you can get a photo copy of a manual for the use of the machine or if you can`t find someone to make you a copy of the pullmax machine as they work basicly the same and the tooling will look the same. You can start by trying to make a beading tool and this is a pain in the butt because a ball bearing does not make a good bead as it leaves to many tool marks. You have to have a leading edge blend into the center ball and it has to start from nothing. Once you have made 2 or 3 three tools you will have the idea and will be able to make tools much easier Dutch

[Dirk D]

I appreciate your help. I just made a die for making the bodyline on 99 and newer chevy trucks to make a new tailgate skin. It seems to be leaving tooling marks where the panel is fed through the die, it isn't digging in the material. You can tell it has been slid through something. I hit the die down with a da and 320 sandpaper to smooth it out , but I assume the faces should be polished. So how do i polish mild steel?
Another q , should the die be chamfered for when the material enters the die?

Thanks,
Dirk

[Keith]

I appreciate your help. I just made a die for making the bodyline on 99 and newer chevy trucks to make a new tailgate skin. It seems to be leaving tooling marks where the panel is fed through the die, it isn't digging in the material. You can tell it has been slid through something. I hit the die down with a da and 320 sandpaper to smooth it out , but I assume the faces should be polished. So how do i polish mild steel?
Another q , should the die be chamfered for when the material enters the die?

Thanks,
Dirk

Roloc [sp] disk on a right angle die grinder work great for polishing die faces and yes you need to chamfer the feed side.

Hope this helps.

[Dutch Comstock]

Kirk, When you make your tooling you have to blend the leading edge of the punch and die to where it will not leave tooling marks. First, should this be done in one pass or in several passes with tool lowered a little each pass or is your travel speed putting the part through the dies to fast.
The surface conditiongo disc`s do make super good blending tools. Dutch