Powered roller speed

[SecaTim]

What is a good speed for a powered bead roller? I know variable speed would be best and later I will convert to that. But in the meantime I have a 120v gear drive that has an output of 30 rpm. I plan to set it up with a chain drive to a HF type roller. What I need is the best rpm range to run at so I can calculate the sproket sizes I need to hook it up. It seems to have plenty of torque and stops almost instantly. There is no noticale run on. Best part is it was a FREEBIE :twisted: :shock: :wink: !!!

Tim 8)

[DougR]

About 20 rpm on 2-1/4" rolls works well for me. Not too fast for curves, kind of slow on long straight sections, but still seems to be a good compromise.

I switched to a variable speed and that's even better. Reverse is a good feature to back out of a trouble spot.

Off/on with a foot pedal so both hands are available to guide the panel.

Doug

[Renee n Jerry Conrad]

Hello Tim,
Doug's comment about 2 1/4" roll diameter is important, because working speed (feet per minute) = roll circumference times rpm. Thus, correct for your roll diameter to get his feet per minute.
Good luck!
Jerry

[anders nørgaard]

Hi All,

2.25" x pi = 7.07" x 20 rpm = 141.37" per min. / 12" = 11.78 ft. per min. (2.4" per sec.)

That should give you an idea what rpm fits your roller size.

Anders DK

[Don Thorne]

Just received a HF bead roller last week and this week end, time permits, going to stiffen the frame for the flex problem (learned that right here – thanks) and try to marry it to an old Linde wire feeder. The old ones operate on 120 volt with a DC motor (OSHA made us change to 24 volts for safety). Even though the feeder has a good speed control, I’m going to still add a chain and sprocket drive to reduce the speed, hopefully for better control and help the little motor from working so hard. I’ll also try to go into the control box and wire in a reversing switch, it would also be neat to get a foot control with the same ohm rating as the speed control on the feeder. You could control everything with your foot having both hands free to work the metal.

If I can figure out how to add pictures to these posts I will.

Don
www.centralwelding.com

[anders nørgaard]

Don,

Sounds like a great week end project :D

Couldn't you just build your speed control into a foot operated box :?: Shouldn't be hard to figure out 8)

About adding pics to posts: Check this post.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=17863#17863

When your pic is in the gallery, do as follows;

Open pic in gallery

Click to view large pic

Right click on large pic

Click properties

Highlight http://..........

Click copy

Click OK

Return to your post

Click the Img button

Right click

Click paste

Click Img*

Your pic is added to the post

PS. About the reversing item. There is a pic in my gallery showing how to wire a DC motor to make it able to reverse.

The easiest way to open my gallery is to click on the profile key in the bottom of my post. When you read my profile, there's a direct link (web site address) to my album. 8) One of the other nice guys on this site taught me that link trick :D :wink:


Anders DK

[Don Thorne]

Hi Anders: I’m not an electrical guru by a long shot, I know enough to be dangerous, but the feeder already has a motor speed control that uses a small ohm rated rheostat and by using a matched one in the foot control would act the same as the one in the unit. It would be like trying to operate a 250 amp Tig machine with a foot control only. In order to go from 0 to 250 amps would take a rheostat the size of a bus. The reversing diagram in your gallery will work for me very well. It’s very similar to the solenoid set up for a winch on a boat or Jeep.

Many thanks for the step by step on posting pictures. I’ll try it in the AM.

Don
donthorne@centralwelding.com

[anders nørgaard]

Hi Don,

You're welcome :D

but the feeder already has a motor speed control that uses a small ohm rated rheostat and by using a matched one in the foot control would act the same as the one in the unit. It would be like trying to operate a 250 amp Tig machine with a foot control only. In order to go from 0 to 250 amps would take a rheostat the size of a bus.

The wire feed motor has a small rheostat that could be built into a small box :!:

Winch, power window, sliding sunroof.... what ever, same trick 8) :lol:

Anders DK

[tdoty]

Good ideas and great stuff here guys!

I used a 90vDC motor with a variable speed controller - just cuz I had it.

Can I make one suggestion? Look into belt drive instead of chain. 2 reasons immediately come to mind:
1: Safety. The exposed belt is harmless compared to a sprocket and all it's teeth. Sure, a guard is easy enough to fab, but #2 answers the other part.

2: Ease of use. There are times, like when working in tight areas or finishing up a bead, when it's pretty easy to reach over and grab the pulley (with your foot OFF the go pedal!) to bump it that last little 1/8" or less.

As far as speed - I dunno. I'm using a gear motor rated at 89 rpm with a 1 1/2" pulley on the motor and a 6"er on the driven end. Looks like around 22.25 rpm full blast. I tend to run it slower than that for short runs or curves, and full blast for the straight stuff and shearing.

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3392/2691beadroller.jpg

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/3392/2691100_2578.jpg

HTH,

Tim D.

[anders nørgaard]

Tim,

Good point about the hand operating issue :!: never thought of that :oops:

Doing that with chain and sprocket leaves oil on your hands too :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

What diameter are your rolls :?:

What diameter are the shafts on your roller :?: ....... Ya know... the Toolitis thing 8)

Hope y'all had a nice week end at Randy's

Anders DK

[tdoty]

Tim,

Good point about the hand operating issue :!: never thought of that :oops:

Doing that with chain and sprocket leaves oil on your hands too :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

What diameter are your rolls :?:

What diameter are the shafts on your roller :?: ....... Ya know... the Toolitis thing 8)

Hope y'all had a nice week end at Randy's

Anders DK

Anders, you ask the toughest questions :lol: . I really don't remember a lot about it...................been busy working on other things, and that info got pushed aside while thinking about things yet undone :wink: . The rolls are 2 - 2 1/4" (depends on the roll I think).

I do know the shafts are 1" - necked down to (I think) 7/8" where the rolls mount. If John Brown is reading this, he might recall the dimensions from the HF bead roller.

Wish I could be more help, but I'm dead tired, brain dead and the bead roller is all the way out in the garage (even though I could see it from where I sit if the garage light was on :lol: :lol: ).

Had a great time at Randy's! Hopefully we'll have some stuff to post Monday (T-1 line at work versus dial up at home :lol: ).

HTH,

Tim D.

[tdoty]

PS:
Good point about the hand operating issue never thought of that

Doing that with chain and sprocket leaves oil on your hands too


Doing it with the belt leaves your fingers on your hands too!

At least on mine, the difference in the pulley sizes makes it really har to get your fingers caught in the belt - even if you forget you're hand cranking it (don't ask how I know that :shock: ).

Tim D.

[anders nørgaard]

Thanks Tim,

Looking forward to seeing your pics from Randy's :D

(I've got "home working office" with compagni paid ADSL :!: 8) 8) )

Anders DK

[Kerry Pinkerton]

A few months back we had this thread and I suggested using a 12V starter motor with a reostat for the power source. Just run if off a battery with a trickle charger on it.. Anyone tried that idea yet?

[Gene_Olson]

I have been watching the gallery and a couple days ago somebody started posting their rebuild of the Harbor freight "flexible beading tool holder".

The fellow showed a picture of an industrial wire feed drive at the beginning but there was no final install picture. Maybe still in process.

Those are DC gearmotors easily reversible and variable speed. I have an extra motor here. Unfortuately I seem to have fried the controler though it does run nicely on a battery charger. :oops:

G.

[Don Thorne]

Gene: That was me posting the pictures and yes it's a work in progress. Just have to machine the drive unit and put it together.

I do run into these older feeders quite often and some have a burned out motor but the control is still ok. I'll let you know when I do and your welcome to it if you want.

Don
donthorne@centralwelding.com