View Full Version : New Torch and Pops?
08-09-2004, 07:45 AM
Finally fired up my torches for the first time last night. Needed them for cutting.
Was running about 12lbs oxy and 2-3lbs acet.
Turned on acet at the torch and lit...everything is good.
Added oxygen and I started getting a pretty consistant "pop...pop....pop"
Even when the cone was adjusted pretty far out, I think I could see the popping happening in the flame (not in the torch body).
Any insight on why this would be happening? Despite any adjustment I made it still did it. It is a brand new torch so it shouldn't be clogged up and I didn't have the tip close to anything and it was still popping.
I'm just a little concerned for my safety. :D
08-09-2004, 08:49 AM
Check what pressure you should be using for that tip.
When I got my rosebud tip it was POP (loud) until a friend came over, adjusted it to 10 lb aceteline and 50 Lb (!!!) O2, now it works fine.
Hope this helps,
08-09-2004, 09:43 AM
I just went with the recommended pressures for cutting. The book I have...although not the greatest manual says 2-3 lbs acet and 10-15 lbs oxygen.
I posted this same question over on the hobart forum and someone said it was a lack of oxygen issue...bump it up to 20lbs and acetylene up to 8-9 (I think he said...will have to read it again).
I'll also do as you suggested and check my product literature to see if there are any recommended pressures for that tip I got with the kit.
I'm willing to admit I don't know jack about torches other than the potential for blowing myself up quick...so it's better to feel stupid and ask questions than blow myself up..
2-3lbs on acetylene is too low for just about anything. Even with a tiny tip welding sheetmetal I'll use 4lbs on acetylene. With my Rosebud - and I think you own an Airline torch like me - I'll use 7lbs acetylene. For cutting, try 7lbs also. The amount of oxygen you'll need will depend on the cutting tip and the thickness of metal that you're trying to cut.
08-09-2004, 10:50 AM
ok I be trying a different and higher pressure tonight.
Falmouth News: Falmouth Man Blows Himself Up
Falmouth, Ma. Monday evening the volunteer fire department was dispatched to contain a fire at a North Falmouth residence, little did they know the would encounter a grizzly scene of carnage. It is believed that Ken Friend (25) was attempting to build a bomb when something went horribly wrong. The explosion rocked nearby houses and shattered windows for blocks. "I knew something wasn't quite right with that guy" says neighbor Alfred Bloomton. "I always heard banging coming from down in his basement...I thought maybe he was working on rebuilding that old truck of his, but now we know he had bad intentions." Police are investigating any possible links to terror networks.
Ken, I won't pretend to be an expert. I'm not. When I got a (used) set of torches, regs, hose, etc. I wrote to the manufacturer and asked for parts lists, instructions, etc. etc...
I got excellent cooperation, and fine support with parts, and other items like leak testing stuff. Recently I began playing (finally!!!) with the torches to work on my fabled mower deck. I'd put the instructions in page protectors and clipped them together--for future reference. They have been extremely helpful as my stuff--WWII era equipment, I think--has all kinds of variations in part numbers, reg settings, tip size and numbering designations. I find myself going back and back and back to the instructions, as I switch from welding to heating and cutting, so I get all the variables right. I'm still not an expert<G> but I've had fewer of the problems that used to plague me--like slag so heavy in a cutting kerf the waste wouldn't even fall off--and I feel like I'm finally on the road to knowing how to use the equipment.
Part of the problem is the stuff was made by Union Carbide, which has also gone by the name of Oxweld, Purox, Linde, and now, I think, Esab. This explains all the different numbering systems and such.
But one thing I just learned last night, is the 'Linde' text book on Oxy-Acetylene welding (that I bought at the same time I got some pieces to fill out my set) is really worth reading and studying. I'd only given it scant attention, til I went looking for the answer to a question and discovered all sorts of gems.
I'm still not an expert, but I suspect that from one manufacturer to another regulator settings vary, similar tip sizes are not called the same names, and there are little idiosyncrasies that you will learn about if you get the pertinent original documentation for the torches you have. I believe the manufacturers have a large stake in seeing to it you know what you are doing with their products, and have the right products in good working order.
BTW, the book did *not* explain what a 'multiflame heating tip' was, was for, as compared to a Rosebud tip, despite the fact that the manufacturer's documentation was where I found the tables laying out the various sizes of each. Did I mention, I'm still not an expert<G>? Good luck in staying alive. Don't even think the name 'Darwin Award'...
Ken, I forgot to mention some postings made by Bambi recently, about OA topics that are worth reading. Be sure and check out the whole threads associated with them, too.
08-10-2004, 04:11 PM
Ken was that you that flew by with a torch in hand :lol: :lol: :lol:
08-11-2004, 06:51 AM
Thanks for all the input guys. I upped my pressures to a few different settings that were recommended and I'm still getting popping. Maybe it was naive of me to assume the tip was clean just because it was new? Or perhaps it had gotten dirty and I just wasn't aware.
In any case, I spoke with a buddy of mine who is a pro-weldor and he said to bring in the torch and regulators and we'll fire them up here...try using different regulators to narrow it down to whether it's a torch problem or a regulator issue.
I think that's the safest plan...there's always a chance that something is horribly wrong with a regulator and I wouldn't be able to identify it...there's a chance that I'm just 'tarded....
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